Sparkling garlands

Antique diamond necklace with natural pearl in gold & silver, around 1900

The years around 1900 brought a formal language into the world of jewellery with the so-called "Garland Style", which countered Art Nouveau with a more classical, finer stylistic conception. Allusions to Louis XVI forms and fine motifs from classical antiquity enlivened a neoclassicism that valued small, delicate laurel tendrils just as much as meticulous festoons and ornaments with tiny mille griffons. Jewellery in this style was made by goldsmiths in Paris, London and Vienna in precious materials, richly set with diamonds, set in silver or platinum. This created a particularly elegant impression: these special jewels sparkled in a supernaturally seductive way, a little worldly and at the same time nostalgic. In this necklace from this era, 78 rose-cut diamonds are gathered around a beautiful old-cut diamond. A fine natural pearl is movably attached to the oval centerpiece of the necklace, which is held at the top by a small laurel wreath that finds its counterpart inside the openwork oval shape. The diamonds of the jewel are set in blackened silver, which is applied to a gold underside. By using silver, the goldsmith of the years around 1900 follows the advice of the famous Florentine goldsmith Benvenuto Cellini, who in his work on the art of goldsmithing recommends setting diamonds in silver, as they sparkle particularly beautifully against the dark background. In fact, the gemstones set here blur into a softly shimmering surface that sprays small flashes of light with every incidence of light, but without trying to match the bright brilliance of modern diamonds. A renewed gold chain makes the jewel wearable. It came to us in London.

Rose cut diamonds, also called "Rose couronée", "crowned roses", can already be found in jewellery of the 16th century. Famous diamonds such as the Orloff and the Grand Mogul are designed in this rose cut, which is characterized by the fact that the top of the diamond is faceted in a star shape and the bottom is cut flat. This creates a very specific, soft shimmer, which is very different from the sometimes glaring glow of today's diamonds. The diamond rose therefore still has numerous followers today, precisely because beautiful, large roses made of diamond are becoming increasingly rare to find.

We want you to be 100% satisfied! For that reason, we examine, describe and photograph all of our jewellery with the utmost care.

You can rely on our years of experience in the trade and our expertise as a professional art historians for reviews of the antique jewellery. As a member of various trader organisations and the British Society of Jewellery Historians, we remain committed to the highest possible degree of accuracy. In our descriptions, we always also indicate any signs of age and defects and never hide them in our photos – this saves you from any unpleasant surprises when your package arrives.

Should you for some reason not be satisfied, please don’t hesitate to contact us so that we can begin to find a solution together. In any case, you can return any article within 30 days and we will refund the full purchase price.


We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.

If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.