Gilded Age

Magnificent Diamond Dormeuse Earrings in Gold, c. 1890


€ 13,290.00 *
Content 1 piece
Incl. VAT, Shipping
Magnificent Diamond Dormeuse Earrings in Gold, c. 1890
Magnificent Diamond Dormeuse Earrings in Gold, c. 1890
Description
This description was automatically translated from German. If you have any questions about this piece of jewellery, we will be happy to help!
These cluster earrings take us back to the 1890s, when the high society of Central Europe and the metropolises of the USA shone at balls and soirées and sparkling jewellery was an indispensable part of evening wear. It was the era that is now known as the "Gilded Age" - a time of splendor that is impressively brought to life in the series of the same name. There, as here, diamonds reflect the sparkling backdrops of a society that flaunted wealth and sophistication with visible relish. A large, cushion-shaped old-cut diamond sparkles in the center of each earring; together, the two center stones weigh 1.85 ct. They are each framed by a ring of twelve further diamonds weighing a total of 1.30 ct. This entourage setting, in which a larger stone is framed by smaller ones, has been popular since the 18th century because it enhances the sparkle of the center stone and makes it appear to be surrounded by a halo of light. The diamonds are cut in the so-called old mine cut, the forerunner of the modern brilliant cut. Created at a time when each stone was still cut by hand, they retain a sparkle all of their own: less perfectly symmetrical, but with a warm, lively refraction of light reminiscent of the candlelight of evenings gone by. The stones are set in 750 gold, which captures the warm tone of the period and provides a harmonious setting for the diamonds. These earrings embody everything that makes historical jewellery so special: masterful craftsmanship, the beauty of old diamond cuts and the elegance of classic shapes. They are small contemporary witnesses - created to carry on the stories of social life around 1890.
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In ancient times, diamonds were prized above all for their incomparable hardness. As symbols of invincible strength, their beauty was secondary at best. In fact, early diamonds do not appear at all attractive to the modern eye. Medieval cutting techniques also did not allow for spectacular light reflections and the widespread table cuts only brought out the brightness and color of the stones. All this changed in the graduated 17th century. The nobility of the Baroque period developed a preference for glittering gemstones. Rose cut diamonds were particularly popular, with their many facets reflecting the candlelight beautifully. In the middle of the century, the first early brilliant cut developed, known as the Mazarin cut after the influential Cardinal Jules Mazarin and characterized by a crown with 17 facets. Towards the end of the century, these diamonds were replaced by a new shape, the Peruzzi cut, named after its inventor. Vincenzo Peruzzi was a gemstone cutter from Venice who increased the crown of the diamonds by an additional 33 facets to a total of 33, thereby increasing the fire of the stones enormously. However, these early diamonds were not standardized in terms of the number and shape of the facets. Each stone was cut in such a way that as much substance as possible could be retained. New diamond deposits in Brazil in the second half of the 18th century then led to a cut shape that became known as the Old Mine Cut. These diamonds are already very similar to today's full-cut diamonds, but it would take a few more generations of continuous improvement in cutting technology before the old mine cut became the old European cut and finally, in the 1940s, the modern full cut.
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Size & Details
Magnificent Diamond Dormeuse Earrings in Gold, c. 1890
Gilded Age
€ 13,290.00 *
Content 1 piece
Incl. VAT, Shipping
Our Promise
Our Promise
Our Promise

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You can rely on our years of experience in the trade and our expertise as a professional art historians for reviews of the antique jewellery. As a member of various trade organisations and the British Society of Jewellery Historians, we remain committed to the highest possible degree of accuracy. In our descriptions, we always also indicate any signs of age and defects and never hide them in our photos – this saves you from any unpleasant surprises when your package arrives.

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