A Line of Beauty
Precious bracelet with old cut diamonds & natural pearls, around 1925
One of the characteristic pieces of Art Deco jewellery is the so-called "line bracelet": a simple and clearly designed rivière bracelet in which the diamonds are set in rectangular settings around the wrist along a flowing, clear line. Its ornamentation is limited to details such as side engravings and fine millet handles. In its proverbial rectilinear orientation, it could be ideally combined with the other geometrically inspired jewels of its time. A particularly beautiful, slightly softer variation on the theme is present here. The river of old-cut diamonds is interrupted on the top of the wrist by five natural saltwater pearls, which have a delicate rosy luster and slightly baroque shapes. This creates a particularly charming contrast between the natural shape of the pearl on the one hand, and the cool sparkle of the diamonds in their geometric settings on the other. Not only the fine white to white quality of the diamonds in historic cuts has been selected, but also the shape of the pearls: a bouton shape with a naturally flattened underside has been chosen so that the pearls do not protrude too far beyond the diamond. The gemstones are set in solid platinum, at that time the highest luxury among precious metals. After the October Revolution in Russia in 1917, Russian platinum deposits were gone, and in tandem with the hardships of World War I, the price of platinum briefly rose to five times the price of gold. For this reason, it was something of a sensation in jewellery circles worldwide when further platinum deposits were discovered in the Transvaal in South Africa in 1924: although platinum was still significantly more expensive than gold, solid pieces made of the white precious metal were now within the realm of possibility. This precious bracelet is exquisitely preserved and combines the finest treasures of the sea and the earth in a timeless design. We have had an independent appraisal done on the materials which attests to their quality and comes with the bracelet.
Cool, elegant, a little worldly - the jewellery of the early 20th century was of a fineness of workmanship never known before. The introduction of the precious metal platinum, which was initially only processed in fine layers on gold, allowed particularly minute details and a radiant white appearance. Platinum had already been worked as a fine layer on gold around 1900, but it was still too expensive to be used on a large scale for solid pieces. Just after the October Revolution in Russia in 1917, Russian deposits fell away, and in tandem with the hardships of World War I, the price of platinum briefly soared to five times the price of gold. Only isolated, particularly luxurious special orders were executed on a massive scale. However, the desire for white jewellery was still unbroken. For this reason, it was something of a sensation in jewellery circles worldwide when further platinum deposits were discovered in the Transvaal in South Africa in 1924. The US trade magazine "The Jeweler's Circular", for example, devoted a two-page article to this discovery in May 1924 (H. 88, May-Jul. 1924, p. 63ff.). And indeed: the new deposits caused the price of platinum to fall so sharply by 1926 that by 1930 it was only one and a half times the price of gold! At last the way was clear for precious, solid platinum jewellery.
We want you to be 100% satisfied! For that reason, we examine, describe and photograph all of our jewellery with the utmost care.
You can rely on our years of experience in the trade and our expertise as a professional art historians for reviews of the antique jewellery. As a member of various trader organisations and the British Society of Jewellery Historians, we remain committed to the highest possible degree of accuracy. In our descriptions, we always also indicate any signs of age and defects and never hide them in our photos – this saves you from any unpleasant surprises when your package arrives.
Should you for some reason not be satisfied, please don’t hesitate to contact us so that we can begin to find a solution together. In any case, you can return any article within 30 days and we will refund the full purchase price.
We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.
If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.