Milestone of the gemstone cut

1920ies Solitaire ring with a diamond of the 18th century.

A milestone of gemstone cutting is presented in this ring from around 1920, which holds a historic diamond as a showpiece, marking a turning point in the history of the king of gemstones. In ancient times, diamonds were prized primarily for their unparalleled hardness. As symbols of invincible strength, their beauty was secondary at best. In fact, early diamonds do not appear at all attractive to the modern eye. Medieval cutting techniques also did not allow for spectacular light reflections, and the widespread table cuts only brought out the brightness and color of the stones. All this changed in the course of the 17th century. The nobility of the Baroque period developed a taste for glittering gems that sparkled in the light of candles. In the middle of the century, an early brilliant cut developed, called the Mazarin cut after the influential Cardinal Jules Mazarin, characterized by a crown of 17 facets. By the end of the century, these diamonds had already been replaced by a new shape, named the Peruzzi cut after its inventor. Vincenzo Peruzzi was a gem cutter from Venice who increased the crown of the diamonds by additional facets to a total of 33, thus increasing the fire of the stones enormously. These Peruzzi diamonds are cushion-shaped and, most importantly, significantly thicker than our classic brilliant-cut diamonds of today. They actually look like the ones you see in storybook illustrations. This ring from around 1920 presents such a diamond in the classic form of the solitaire. The diamond of about 0.58 ct, which was probably cut as late as the 18th century, is thus a secondary use that illustrates the interest in historical stones at the beginning of the 20th century. In general, long into the 20th century, the path to a new piece of jewelry rarely led to a jeweler's collection. Far more often, women or men turned to a talented goldsmith to have a new piece of jewellery made from precious stones already in the family or jewels that had become unfashionable, according to their own ideas and in exchange with the craftsman. The result is a very personal, unique ring, in the middle of which sparkles a historic diamond from the 18th century.

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You can rely on our years of experience in the trade and our expertise as a professional art historians for reviews of the antique jewellery. As a member of various trader organisations and the British Society of Jewellery Historians, we remain committed to the highest possible degree of accuracy. In our descriptions, we always also indicate any signs of age and defects and never hide them in our photos – this saves you from any unpleasant surprises when your package arrives.

Should you for some reason not be satisfied, please don’t hesitate to contact us so that we can begin to find a solution together. In any case, you can return any article within 30 days and we will refund the full purchase price.


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We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.

If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.

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