Precious calibration

Antique pendant brooch with turquoises & diamonds, Paul Robin attr., Paris circa 1873

Between 1835 and 1910, the Maison Jean-Paul Robin was one of the most influential jewellery houses in Paris. The classic of the house is a brooch in the shape of an owl's head, which was produced in various versions in the years around 1880, inspired countless less famous copies and is still coveted by jewellery collectors today. But other designs by the House of Robin also made jewellery history in the truest sense of the word. Henri Vever, for example, included three of Robin's medallion designs in his standard work on the history of 19th century French jewellery (cf. last illustration, Henri Vever: La Bijouterie Française au XIXème ciecle, Vol. 3, p. 350). Vever's medallion on the far right shows a characteristic pattern of calibrated turquoise sabochons set close together, interrupted only by small diamond roses. This pattern and the description are identical to that of the brooch here, which bears a Paris fineness mark. Its front is also covered with this skillfully set pattern of gemstones, which only an accomplished goldsmith could create in such a way. Only the finest grains of gold peek out from between the stones and hold them in place. It is likely that this brooch also originates from Robin; several other variations of the turquoise motif are known. A pendant loop was added to the brooch in earlier times, probably not too long after it was made, so that it can now be worn in two ways.

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We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.

If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.

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