Antique white gold brooch with large old cut diamonds, Art Déco around 1930
White jewels, i.e. pieces of jewellery in white, celebrate light. The innovation of the electric light bulb turned night into day at the end of the 19th century. Consequently, jewellery could now shine in the evening as never before. At the grand balls in Paris, London and St. Petersburg, ever more magnificent diamond necklaces were presented, as well as tiaras, brooches and rings, all dreams in white diamonds. When, at the beginning of the 20th century, platinum and finally white gold found their way into the shop windows of jewellers, this white brilliance was complete and the night was turned into day. A particularly beautiful, typical example of Art Deco jewellery in precisely this fashion is presented here in the form of this bar brooch made of white gold: For the piece of jewelry of the years around 1930 shines and glows in an almost unearthly light. The design of the brooch combines high-carat white gold with more than one carat of white diamonds. The goldsmith's basic idea was apparently to bring the line as the simplest form into an expressive shape by increasingly enriching it towards the centre. In the process, three large diamonds are encompassed by a surrounding frame. Narrower stripes, richly set with further diamonds, separate the large stones from each other. The design appears as if it were covered with textile ribbons. The brooch, which was created in Germany in the years around 1930, has survived the passing of time in first-class condition. We are pleased to be able to present its delightful play of lights here.
The shape of the diamond has evolved over many centuries. For a long time it was technically impossible to change the raw crystal more than rudimentary, because the diamond is so extraordinarily hard. In the 17th and 18th century it was then possible to extract more and more facets from the crystal and in the course of the 19th century the cuts came closer and closer to the shape we know today as a brilliant. It was not until 1919, however, that Marcel Tolkowsky calculated the ideal shape of the brilliant on an optical-physical basis; the exact shape, which is the standard in Germany today, the so-called fine cut of the practice, was not even determined until 1938. The shape of the modern brilliant-cut diamond really became established after the war. The brilliant is therefore actually a fairly recent invention - and this also means that with a diamond cut in the 19th century or at the beginning of the 20th century, a so-called "old cut", the proportions of the stone do not follow the standard of today's brilliant. Old cuts were always cut individually in those days: One wanted to find the optimal way between the best brilliance on the one hand and the least loss of material during cutting on the other. We find that it is precisely this individuality that makes old diamonds so particularly interesting. They are less easy to compare, and their value cannot simply be determined by means of a table: Because you have to look at each stone individually to really be able to say whether it has the fire and brilliance that you expect from a diamond.
We want you to be 100% satisfied! For that reason, we examine, describe and photograph all of our jewellery with the utmost care.
You can rely on our years of experience in the trade and our expertise as a professional art historians for reviews of the antique jewellery. As a member of various trader organisations and the British Society of Jewellery Historians, we remain committed to the highest possible degree of accuracy. In our descriptions, we always also indicate any signs of age and defects and never hide them in our photos – this saves you from any unpleasant surprises when your package arrives.
Should you for some reason not be satisfied, please don’t hesitate to contact us so that we can begin to find a solution together. In any case, you can return any article within 30 days and we will refund the full purchase price.
We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.
If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.