A feast in white
Antique diamond ring of the Belle Époque in platinum, around 1915
Jewellery in cool and noble white - that has been the dream of jewellery designers since the late 19th century. But the technical possibilities put a stop to this dream for some time. Diamonds were available, but the tricky part was the question of the right metal. At first, only silver was available to create white jewelry from - but the metal tarnishes and can leave discolorations on skin and clothes. It was not until the years around 1900 that platinum was increasingly used, but it was difficult to work with and the metal was even more expensive than gold! Often, therefore, only platinum was used on the front of the pieces. This ring, on the other hand, is made entirely of platinum. The centre of the jewel, designed as a flat dome, is set with a sparkling brilliant-cut diamond. An effective, wide joint separates it from its surroundings, resulting in a beautiful play of light and shadow. From it, the finely structured, symmetrical design develops in all directions. Numerous other, smaller diamonds also occupy every possible spot here. In total, around 0.42 ct of diamonds are thus processed. The ring was made in the 1910s, according to its design language. It is very well preserved and was apparently restored once in recent times, some of the smaller diamonds as well as the large diamond in the center were renewed at that time.
With the invention of gaslight and then electric light at the end of the 19th century, glistening brightness suddenly filled the ballrooms of Europe. No longer dark, yellow candlelight, but the white glow of hundreds of lamps made the ladies' jewellery shine and glitter as never before. No wonder that as a result of these developments, a new fashion also emerged: white jewels made of diamonds and silver responded to the new lighting conditions and replaced the previous more colourful designs. In general, jewellery was increasingly richly set with sparkling gems to create an ever more luxurious and rich appearance. At the great balls in Paris, London and St. Petersburg, ever more magnificent diamond necklaces were presented, as well as tiaras, brooches and rings, all dreams in white diamonds. The name of the era, the Belle Époque, still indicates the goal of the period: To shine in beauty. But the fashion for white jewellery also remained current in the following decades, right up to the Art Déco of the 1920s. Only the materials of the settings changed. The rapidly tarnishing silver was first replaced by platinum settings and later by jewellery made entirely of platinum or the white gold developed shortly before the world war.
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You can rely on our years of experience in the trade and our expertise as a professional art historians for reviews of the antique jewellery. As a member of various trader organisations and the British Society of Jewellery Historians, we remain committed to the highest possible degree of accuracy. In our descriptions, we always also indicate any signs of age and defects and never hide them in our photos – this saves you from any unpleasant surprises when your package arrives.
Should you for some reason not be satisfied, please don’t hesitate to contact us so that we can begin to find a solution together. In any case, you can return any article within 30 days and we will refund the full purchase price.
We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.
If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.