Antique gold aquamarine & diamond bracelet, England circa 1940
What could be more refreshing in the summer heat than a glimpse of the cool sparkle of water-blue aquamarines? This bracelet combines 66 of these precious stones in a uniform, strong blue hue and 44 white old-cut diamonds to create a symphony of sparkling facets. Created in the years around 1940, the bracelet displays its 110 gemstones in moveably mounted settings. Three rows each of oval-cut, faceted aquamarines of very good quality are set side by side, with the spaces between them occupied by small old-cut diamonds set in individual white gold bezels. More than 70 carats of aquamarines and about 1.10 carats of fine old-cut diamonds give the impression that the band consists entirely of precious gems, so much do the settings of high-carat gold take a back seat. The quality of the goldsmith's work can be seen not only in the supple movement of the band but also in its hidden lock: When worn, there is no discernible beginning or end to this bracelet. Only two of the diamonds are set in a slightly raised position and form the pusher of the almost invisible box lock. The bracelet playfully combines perfect workmanship, precious fittings and, despite its age of around 90 years, a surprisingly modern design to create a sensational piece of jewellery of wonderful quality. It came to us from London and comes with a detailed appraisal from the German Gemstone Appraisal Society.
The formal language of the piece is typical of jewellery from the years of the late Art Deco, we see here a style that is called "Retro Jewellery" in English-speaking countries and for which there is no corresponding term in German. While in the 1920s and early 1930s so-called "white jewels" dominated, which were almost exclusively set with diamonds and which, through the use of platinum, formed optically white pieces of jewellery, a great love of precious coloured stones can be observed in jewellery of the 1930s and 1940s. It was also during this era that yellow gold returned to the workshops of the master craftsmen and platinum became less and less important. In the late 1930s, the shapes of the jewellery became stronger and more physical, and where ten years earlier fine mille grips and shadow gaps were intended to convey as delicate an impression as possible, the focus of retro-style jewellery was on the desire for brightly coloured gemstones or architectural-looking volumes.
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We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.
If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.