Blue Flower

Antique Biedermeier necklace with aquamarines in gold, around 1845

"I look for the blue flower, I look for it and never find it," wrote the late Romantic poet Joseph von Eichendorff in 1818. It may be quite similar for those who seek blue aquamarines in 19th century jewelry: They are extremely rare to find at the beginning and middle of the century. It was not until the end of the 19th century that they first appeared in isolated cases, then suddenly in larger numbers - because their special property, it was discovered, was their high brilliance in electric light, which was beginning its triumphant advance at the same time. New finds in distant Brazil may also have played a part in this sudden fashion. A lucky find, therefore, a blue flower in every sense of the word, is that little flower in the centre of the present necklace, dating from around 1845. The centre and the individual petals are cut from water-blue aquamarines, each of which displays the characteristic brilliance of this gemstone. The flower is surrounded by dainty, laboriously crafted appliqués in the form of leaves and tendrils. The centerpiece of the necklace is made of so-called foam gold, a typical technique of the Biedermeier period. Since gold was expensive, but fashion demanded elaborate shapes, plastic forms were driven into fine gold sheet and filled with resin to prevent rapid denting. Thus, despite its splendid impression, the necklace is light and pleasant to wear, for the chain links are also particularly finely crafted. The middle strand of the links is forged from hand-punctured gold, so that a richly detailed view is offered. It is hard to imagine the hours of intensive handwork that went into the production of such a piece of jewellery - but in fact, at that time, the work was comparatively cheaper than the material, so that it was worthwhile to process the noble good elaborately but finely. Thus, the piece of jewellery is not only a rarity because of its noble trimming, but in our time more than ever because of the fine, today mostly forgotten techniques. Comparative pieces from the years around 1845 can be found in Brigitte Marquardt:Schmuck. Classicism and Biedermeier, 1780-1850, Munich 1983, cat. No. 50 ff.

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We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.

If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.