stars and starlets
Antique Art Deco necklace with old cut diamond in gold & platinum, around 1930
The Art Deco era is known for luxurious diamond jewelry. Even then, the world of film set the tone, the world of stars and starlets: In the black-and-white films, which were first shown in 1929 in Berlin also with sound, sparkling white diamonds looked more advantageous than colored stones or yellow gold. Hardly any film wardrobe of the female leads in those years was complete without diamond jewellery. Here we have a diamond jewellery of the years around 1930 that is worthy of a film. The teardrop-shaped pendant, which lives from the play of light of the central diamond as well as from the structuring of the white platinum surface through delicate saw work, mille handles and clever cut-outs, does without any colour at all. The central diamond weighs about 0.13 ct and is shaped in the so-called transitional cut, a direct predecessor of our present brilliant cut. Smaller, additional diamonds flash as supporting actors between the shadow gaps and on the agraffe that connects the pendant to the chain. Typical of the period, the jewel is crafted in platinum on yellow gold. The design as an elongated, teardrop-shaped pendant is particularly characteristic of the late 1920s and early 1930s and we encounter it again and again in jewellery from the period of the Weimar Republic, in various sizes and designs. Lastly, we reproduce a page from a catalogue of the Pforzheim jeweller and purveyor to the court F. Todt from the 1931/32 season, which assembles several of these "Modern Pendants". They help to date this pendant as well.
Jewellery in elegant, cool and noble white - that has been the dream of jewellery designers since the late 19th century. But the technical possibilities put a stop to this dream for some time. Diamonds were available, but the tricky part was the question of the right metal. At first, only silver was available to create white jewelry from, but the metal tarnishes and can leave discolorations on skin and clothes. From the 1900s onwards, platinum was used more and more, but it was difficult to work with and much more expensive than gold, so that platinum was usually only used on the front of the pieces.
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You can rely on our years of experience in the trade and our expertise as a professional art historians for reviews of the antique jewellery. As a member of various trader organisations and the British Society of Jewellery Historians, we remain committed to the highest possible degree of accuracy. In our descriptions, we always also indicate any signs of age and defects and never hide them in our photos – this saves you from any unpleasant surprises when your package arrives.
Should you for some reason not be satisfied, please don’t hesitate to contact us so that we can begin to find a solution together. In any case, you can return any article within 30 days and we will refund the full purchase price.
We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.
If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.