Under the Mistletoe

Antique Tiara With 14,36 ct Diamonds & Pearls in Gold & Silver, Around 1895

The kiss under the mistletoe is an old Christmas tradition. If a young woman stood under the mistletoe, a man was allowed to kiss her; in morally strict times one of the few opportunities for young lovers to get closer to each other. But under no circumstances should one be intemperate when kissing - for with each kiss a white berry must be plucked from the branches. If, on the other hand, a young couple kissed under the mistletoe, their relationship should be under a particularly lucky star. It is this latter variant of the old custom that seems to have inspired the present tiara, for it appears allusive in the form of stylized mistletoe branches, which, when worn, always hover above the head of their owner. So perhaps it was once made for a wedding, so that the bride and groom could exchange their first kiss as a married couple under the precious lucky charm? Between the moving-looking leaves of the mistletoe, the stems sway to form the characteristic whiplash ornaments of Art Nouveau. Unusually large, natural pearls with a shimmering luster sit as white berries between the leaves. Their natural colour variation is particularly beautiful, alternating between bluish pink, warm champagne tones and cool white. These are both oriental pearls and naturally grown freshwater pearls. A total of 284 diamonds totaling approximately 14.36 ct set each sweep and leaf of the mistletoe tiara. They are shaped in historic old European and rose cuts and show unusually high colour quality for diamonds of this age. As was customary in the late 19th century, they are set in silver on reddish gold, so that the dark patination of the silver makes their colour and brilliance stand out even more. Jewellery history knows another example here: in 1910, the French jewellery house Mellerio created a mistletoe tiara for a young bride, designed as a classicistic-looking wreath with diamond leaves and white pearls as berries. This piece, however, was made a little earlier, the Art Nouveau design language and the silver on gold workmanship allow us to date it to the years around 1895. It is beautifully preserved and comes with an independent gemmological certificate confirming the quality of the materials used.

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You can rely on our years of experience in the trade and our expertise as a professional art historians for reviews of the antique jewellery. As a member of various trader organisations and the British Society of Jewellery Historians, we remain committed to the highest possible degree of accuracy. In our descriptions, we always also indicate any signs of age and defects and never hide them in our photos – this saves you from any unpleasant surprises when your package arrives.

Should you for some reason not be satisfied, please don’t hesitate to contact us so that we can begin to find a solution together. In any case, you can return any article within 30 days and we will refund the full purchase price.


We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.

If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.