Antique rivière bracelet with 16,05 ct old european cut diamonds, around 1920
This platinum bracelet from around 1920 consists of 28 sparkling diamonds in old, individual cuts with a total weight of more than 16 carats. The precious stones are arranged in a gradient according to size: smaller diamonds of around 0.25 carats mark the clasp, while two particularly large brilliant-cut diamonds of around 2.70 carats together form the highlight of this spectacular collection of rare gemstones. Each diamond in this piece of jewellery is unique, an individual: each of the cuts to be studied here has been developed by hand for the respective rough crystal. Each of the diamonds has its own distinctive inclusion pattern and personal color, ranging from Wesselton white to bright natural yellows, giving the bracelet a warm fire. The diamonds are all set in fine platinum, with only the snap forged in more resilient gold. Fine bezels hold the stones and are movably connected to each other. Thus the bracelet, a so-called "rivière", flows softly around the arm like a river of light. The clasp visually disappears beneath the smaller diamonds, creating the perfect illusion of a continuous diamond band without beginning or end. The diamonds that are so wonderfully staged here were probably cut as early as the late 19th century and are older than the bracelet itself. This is shown by the individually cut shapes of the stones in the old european cut. The diamonds are not quite round but still slightly oriented to the angular shape of their original crystals. Their shine is also much softer than that of modern full-cut diamonds - but this is precisely what makes this unique bracelet so appealing. The piece of jewellery was made at the beginning of the 20th century. Presumably the diamonds had previously been set in another piece of jewellery that had become unfashionable in its form or no longer had any function because fashion demands or social customs had changed. Especially after World War I, some large tiaras were reworked into more wearable pieces of jewelry, or historic brooches into modern earrings, as we know from articles in contemporary magazines. Perhaps several smaller pieces of jewellery were put together to create this precious bracelet: such reworkings were the rule in earlier generations and so it is all the more astonishing that this bracelet with its precious trimming has survived the ages unscathed! We discovered the bracelet in Paris. It bears French import marks that further attest to its trip to the city of love and light. Unfortunately, we don't know where it came from before that. Nor how long it was visiting Paris. Its classically reduced design may have originated in Central Europe as well as in Great Britain or Northern Europe. What is certain, however, is that its precious beauty was a wonderful fit for the metropolis on the Seine - and its brilliance seems to have captured something of the thousands of lights on the boulevards. A detailed appraisal commissioned by us on the quality and individual weights of the diamonds accompanies the bracelet.
Platinum is a very special jewellery metal. Although it has been known since the beginning of the 16th century (the first deposits were found in South America) and numerous alchemists have repeatedly studied its properties, it has only been used for jewellery production since the beginning of the 20th century. It is too complicated and difficult to process because of its great hardness. And at the same time it was so precious (more than eight times as expensive as gold!) that very few goldsmiths dared to work it. It was only in the years shortly after 1900 that jewellery made with platinum came into being. At first, new techniques allowed thin platinum layers, which met the demand for so-called white jewels. In the following years, jewellery made entirely of platinum became possible and, with the discovery of new deposits, more affordable. This now allowed far finer designs to be realised than ever before: the great strength of the metal allows even the finest bars, which nevertheless defy all stresses.
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You can rely on our years of experience in the trade and our expertise as a professional art historians for reviews of the antique jewellery. As a member of various trader organisations and the British Society of Jewellery Historians, we remain committed to the highest possible degree of accuracy. In our descriptions, we always also indicate any signs of age and defects and never hide them in our photos – this saves you from any unpleasant surprises when your package arrives.
Should you for some reason not be satisfied, please don’t hesitate to contact us so that we can begin to find a solution together. In any case, you can return any article within 30 days and we will refund the full purchase price.
We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.
If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.