Bewitching brilliance

Superb Belle Époque bracelet with 12.77 ct diamonds, circa 1900

The first ball of the season was and is always a special event. Not only that the debutantes were finally allowed to introduce themselves to the society after a long wait. Also, the start of the ball season promised pleasure again after the months of secluded stay in the countryside in the summer resort. The latest dresses, the newest jewellery came into play: and with the waltz the wheel of rumours, jokes and the of all pleasures turned anew. No wonder that especially sparkling diamond jewellery enjoyed particular popularity at the turn of the 20th century. To the light of candles, gas lighting and even the first experiments with electric light, white stones still shine best. Settings of bright silver support the brilliance of the diamonds because platinum only gradually became established in jewellery production in the years from 1900 onwards. This superb bracelet is a typical white jewel of the Belle Époque. It gathers more than twelve carats of white diamonds in a magnificent design that expands from stylized leaves into a cartouche shape in the center. The total of 75 diamonds sparkle with fine mille handles, giving the jewel a beguiling glow. The bracelet, with its numerous links joined in a flexible manner, is forged from gold and presents the diamonds in a showpiece of silver. In earlier times, the jewel was rhodium-plated to give it a uniform white appearance. Thus, the stones formed in ancient cuts have a particularly spectacular appearance, as not only does no other colour interfere with their colour, but their bright fire is optimally emphasised. The bracelet of the years around 1900 is designed completely on the height of its time. Its forms are gradually moving away from imitation of nature and no longer imitate any of the historical styles, as most jewellery designs did a generation earlier. Rather, it is the joy of the white sheen that distinguishes the jewellery - and an elegant, cool joy with tendencies towards geometry that clearly transitions to Art Deco. We have had the quality materials tested by an independent institute in Idar-Oberstein. The corresponding certificate is included with the piece. For dating, see also the bracelet illustrated in David Bennet and Daniela Mascetti: Understanding Jewellery, Woodbridge 2010, p. 251, which corresponds in type to the piece here.

We want you to be 100% satisfied! For that reason, we examine, describe and photograph all of our jewellery with the utmost care.

You can rely on our years of experience in the trade and our expertise as a professional art historians for reviews of the antique jewellery. As a member of various trader organisations and the British Society of Jewellery Historians, we remain committed to the highest possible degree of accuracy. In our descriptions, we always also indicate any signs of age and defects and never hide them in our photos – this saves you from any unpleasant surprises when your package arrives.

Should you for some reason not be satisfied, please don’t hesitate to contact us so that we can begin to find a solution together. In any case, you can return any article within 30 days and we will refund the full purchase price.


We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.

If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.