Bangle by Angela Cummings for Tiffany & Co. in gold, New York 1984
Angela Cumming, born in 1944 in Klagenfurt, Austria, moved to the USA with her family as a child. After her studies, which took her back to Europe, among others to Perugia and Hanau, where she studied jewellery design and gemology at the Drawing Academy, she began her meteoric career as a jewellery designer in New York. From 1968 Cummings worked for Tiffany & Co as a designer, where from 1975 she was one of the few designers at the house to be sold under her own name: An honor that had otherwise only been bestowed on Jean Schlumberger or Elsa Peretti. In 1984 Cummings left Tiffany and opened her own boutique in the famous Bergdorf Foodman department store on Fifth Avenue; other boutiques in New York soon followed. Cummings' designs during her time at Tiffany are characterized by the use of a great deal of lustrous yellow gold, typical of the period, which forms the basis for inlay work in mother-of-pearl, jade, lapis lazuli, and other materials. Some of her designs are naturalistic, others geometrically abstract, but it is always the joy of the full use of materials that makes her designs so magnificent and typical. The bangle presented here shows this style in a very typical way and is therefore a particularly beautiful testimony to the design art of the great designer - and at the same time a highlight for any collection of jewellery from the 1980s. High-carat yellow gold wraps itself around the arm as a broad cuff. Black jade and mother-of-pearl inlays are then set flush into the surface, forming scattered dominoes. The inlays masterfully follow the curvature of the perfectly preserved hoop. Cummings ran her jewelry company until 2003, when she and her family retired to Utah. The bracelet, marked with Tiffany's corporate mark and so typically bearing Cummings' signature, was created during Cummings' time at Tiffany between 1975 and 1984. An incised mark "III.84." inside suggests that the bracelet was more accurately executed in the designer's final year at the venerable jewelry maison. On Cummings, see, among others, the 2003 article celebrating her retirement from the jewelry business in the New York Times and her biography in the Encyclopedia of Fashion.
All times have their fashions, and all fashions have their effects on the realm of jewelry as well. Jewellery of the 1980s is an often beautiful, and always impressive, testimony to a time of optimism and abundance: the oil crisis seemed to be over, Wall Street was flourishing - people sipped cocktails and paid by credit card, everything seemed possible. At the same time, a new image of women emerged. Self-confident and tough, asserting herself at work, in the face of men, successful, with broad shoulder pads and high heels, she adorned herself with rings, necklaces and brooches in hitherto unusual dimensions, with reflective surfaces of yellow gold and rich trimmings of coloured gemstones. A lot of costume jewellery was created, as the jewellery made of real materials would have been unaffordable for most women, so large and heavy were they intended to appear. But real jewellery was also produced in large numbers in the USA and Europe, of course.
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We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.
If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.