Seductive departure

Large brooch/pendant of floral art nouveau with diamonds, around 1900

The 1900 World's Fair in Paris attracted over 48 million visitors. At the height of the Belle Époque, the official motto of the exhibition was "Taking stock of a century", but instead of looking back on what had been, the triumph was Art Nouveau, which aimed to break with traditional forms and was already shaping art and the decorative arts throughout Europe. It was on display for the first time at this major exhibition in all its fullness of form and delighted visitors in droves. The diamond jewel, which we would like to present to you here, originates exactly from this period of the arts and crafts. The piece of jewellery, which can be worn as a brooch or as a pendant, captivates by its enchanting, so very typical Jugeld style forms: The large dynamic sweeps, its asymmetrical shape and the very particular lightness of the precious design show all the characteristics for which French Art Nouveau has become famous. The brooch is made of gold with a silver face. This technique, which was typical throughout the 19th century, was intended to create an optimal environment for the numerous rose-cut diamonds with which the piece is richly decorated, so that they could unfold their soft shimmer unadulterated by the colourfulness of the gold. Platinum or white gold were not yet available to goldsmiths in the 19th century. Silver, on the other hand, could be worked and was loved precisely for its darker shimmer in the depths of the jewels: the light of the diamonds thus creates a very special impression of its own, matching the soft light of the boudoirs of the time. The swaying lines of the brooch form a stylised plant shape, like a plant from a magic garden, and its energetic dynamism seems almost animated. Thus we have a beautifully shaped piece of turn-of-the-century diamond jewellery that wonderfully brings French Art Nouveau to mind.

The predecessors of today's brooches were brooches worn to fasten coats. These pieces of jewellery resembled a safety pin and served to hold garments together at the shoulders. These brooches also announced the status of their owner and as early as the Bronze Age they were decorated with figures and decorated with art. The Romans designed their brooches so splendidly that they were subject to luxury taxes. The fibula - and since the Middle Ages a similarly designed piece of jewellery called a Fürspann - ensured the correct fit of clothing for almost 3,000 years. However, at the latest since the invention of the button, the fibula and the Fürspann became increasingly superfluous in their function - and were now able to develop into purely decorative objects, initially at the court of Louis XIV in the 17th century.

We want you to be 100% satisfied! For that reason, we examine, describe and photograph all of our jewellery with the utmost care.

You can rely on our years of experience in the trade and our expertise as a professional art historians for reviews of the antique jewellery. As a member of various trader organisations and the British Society of Jewellery Historians, we remain committed to the highest possible degree of accuracy. In our descriptions, we always also indicate any signs of age and defects and never hide them in our photos – this saves you from any unpleasant surprises when your package arrives.

Should you for some reason not be satisfied, please don’t hesitate to contact us so that we can begin to find a solution together. In any case, you can return any article within 30 days and we will refund the full purchase price.


We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.

If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.