flower power

Extraordinary brooch with movable ruby & diamond flowers, Italy circa 1965

In many ways, this brooch is a child of its time - and at the same time, it hides a nod to 19th century jewelry history. But one after the other! First of all, there is the asymmetrical composition of the brooch, which is designed as a loosely tied bouquet of flowers. Even in the first half of the 20th century this was rather rare: The vast majority of brooches for everyday use were of a symmetrical basic shape, as they were worn centered on the collar of a blouse. It was not until the post-war period that the way of wearing brooches under the shoulder, which is still widespread today, became established. This asymmetrical placement, in turn, provided the appropriate setting for shapes such as this one. Also typical of the 1960s is the texture. Yellow and white gold were textured in different ways and worked side by side to create an impression rich in detail. Hardly any design aspect could be more characteristic of the 1960s than textured gold: it was no longer purely shiny, polished gold surfaces that were in demand, but those that played with light and shadow through their surfaces and thus exhausted all the facets of the gold colours. Surfaces like grains of sand were sometimes seen, sometimes reminiscent of the veining of leaves or other natural structures, sometimes completely abstract. These were designs the likes of which had never been seen before, in any epoch of jewellery history. A special feature of the brooch is at once typical of the time and anachronistic - and only noticeable when the piece of jewellery is in motion. This is because the small blossoms of rubies and diamonds are mounted so that they can move, causing them to tremble slightly when in motion. On the one hand, this brings the brooch closer to the contemporary art of the 1960s, to the kinetic works of art that also lived from movement. On the other hand, however, the idea draws on the history of jewellery, as it harks back to brooches of the Victorian era, which were designed "en tremblant" with flowers trembling on hidden spiral springs. The brooch is excellently preserved. According to its hallmark it was made before 1968 in the Italian province of Alessandria. A characteristic piece of jewellery of the 1960s, with rich references to jewellery history!

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You can rely on our years of experience in the trade and our expertise as a professional art historians for reviews of the antique jewellery. As a member of various trader organisations and the British Society of Jewellery Historians, we remain committed to the highest possible degree of accuracy. In our descriptions, we always also indicate any signs of age and defects and never hide them in our photos – this saves you from any unpleasant surprises when your package arrives.

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We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.

If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.

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