A late happiness

Precious diamond brooch with 1.08 ct diamonds, Moscow 1953

Not only in Vienna, Paris and London precious jewellery has always been created: also in the centres further east wonderful jewellery has always been made since the 19th century, be it in Odessa , Moscow or St. Petersburg. This brooch takes us to the capital of Russia, to the banks of the Moskva River and to a time that may seem surprising at first glance: the year 1953! The brooch made of gold with a front made of platinum is designed in shapes that first remind us of the art nouveau of the turn of the century. In a curved frame, it shows a blossom growing up a fine bar - aptly called "knife wire". Two leaves flank the blossom, which is made up of a single, particularly large and brilliant old European cut diamond of about 0.42 ct. A total of 22 diamonds of about 1.08 ct together stud the entire jewel over and over, while the milgrain setting structures the visible metal so that it shimmers with every movement. The late origin is surprising at first, but the sequence of stamps on the back of the brooch and some details of workmanship clearly date the piece. Obviously, it was a custom-made piece, probably using older family-owned diamonds. Perhaps its first owner still remembered the time under the Tsar and wanted to preserve a little of the splendour of the old court in the new era with this beautiful, shiny brooch.

With the invention of gaslight and then electric light at the end of the 19th century, glistening brightness suddenly filled the ballrooms of Europe. No longer dark, yellow candlelight, but the white glow of hundreds of lamps made the ladies' jewellery shine and glitter as never before. No wonder that as a result of these developments, a new fashion also emerged: white jewels made of diamonds and silver responded to the new lighting conditions and replaced the previous more colourful designs. In general, jewellery was increasingly richly set with sparkling gems to create an ever more luxurious and rich appearance. At the great balls in Paris, London and St. Petersburg, ever more magnificent diamond necklaces were presented, as well as tiaras, brooches and rings, all dreams in white diamonds. The name of the era, the Belle Époque, still indicates the goal of the period: To shine in beauty. But the fashion for white jewellery also remained current in the following decades, right up to the Art Deco of the 1920s and even beyond. Only the materials of the settings changed. The rapidly tarnishing silver was first replaced by platinum settings and later by jewellery made entirely of platinum or white gold, which was developed shortly before the world war.

We want you to be 100% satisfied! For that reason, we examine, describe and photograph all of our jewellery with the utmost care.

You can rely on our years of experience in the trade and our expertise as a professional art historians for reviews of the antique jewellery. As a member of various trader organisations and the British Society of Jewellery Historians, we remain committed to the highest possible degree of accuracy. In our descriptions, we always also indicate any signs of age and defects and never hide them in our photos – this saves you from any unpleasant surprises when your package arrives.

Should you for some reason not be satisfied, please don’t hesitate to contact us so that we can begin to find a solution together. In any case, you can return any article within 30 days and we will refund the full purchase price.


We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.

If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.