American Dream

Elegant solitaire ring in white gold with diamond & sapphires, USA circa 1925

Whether New York, Paris or Berlin - in all metropolises in the 1920s, people loved the progressive and at the same time strict and elegant design language of Art Deco. But each place also developed its own variations of this modern style. While European and especially German rings of the 1920s tended towards flat, elongated designs, US rings of the time were characterised above all by their towering, yet filigree openwork sides. This is a typical American ring of the time. It sets a beautiful, white old-cut diamond of about 0.40 ct as a solitaire. To the left and right, deep blue, calibrated sapphires flank the center stone and lead to the narrow ring band. The side view reveals delicate ornaments in an openwork design reminiscent of fine lace. All of this is executed in white gold, a typically American material of those years: under David Belais, who founded the jewellery company of the same name in 1863, experiments were carried out for many years with gold alloys that would combine the white colour of platinum with the advantages of gold. When Belais registered his patent in 1918, he was already ahead of the German Karl Richter from Pforzheim, who had registered his own, somewhat different patent for white gold in 1913. Due to the World War, however, Richter's invention was hardly used for the time being, and so it was ultimately the name Belais, at least in the USA, that became synonymous with high-carat white gold, while European goldsmiths more frequently resorted to platinum or combinations of white gold and platinum. A delicately crafted ring from the years of the Great Gatsby, it beautifully embodies the cool elegance and the will to progress of those years - and probably once symbolically embodied the "American dream" of glamour and economic success for its first owner. In later times, the back part of the ring rail was replaced by a narrow hoop of silver, which our goldsmiths can replace for you again with white gold.

We want you to be 100% satisfied! For that reason, we examine, describe and photograph all of our jewellery with the utmost care.

You can rely on our years of experience in the trade and our expertise as a professional art historians for reviews of the antique jewellery. As a member of various trader organisations and the British Society of Jewellery Historians, we remain committed to the highest possible degree of accuracy. In our descriptions, we always also indicate any signs of age and defects and never hide them in our photos – this saves you from any unpleasant surprises when your package arrives.

Should you for some reason not be satisfied, please don’t hesitate to contact us so that we can begin to find a solution together. In any case, you can return any article within 30 days and we will refund the full purchase price.


We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.

If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.