Precious Calibrated

Elegant Retro Bracelet with Calibrated Sapphires in Gold, Around 1930

The longer and wider the Art Deco style spread, the more its forms developed. In France and the USA, for example, a special form of late Art Deco called "retro" jewellery emerged in the years after 1930: The forms became stronger, more corporeal, the volumes larger and the jewellery once again more splendid, with the colourfulness of the stones and metal used playing a major role. But not only the shapes changed, also the colours of the jewellery changed after some time: the fashion of the years from 1940 onwards, for example, preferred jewellery made of yellow or red gold to those made of platinum or white gold and coloured stones replaced diamonds in their popularity. The surfaces of the gold were fanned out geometrically and the jewels were conceived almost like cubist architectures. Calibrated coloured stones, i.e. cut to fit into predetermined shapes, were a speciality of late Art Deco: precious stones were cut in such a way that they could be fitted seamlessly next to each other in certain settings. Today, this technique is rare because it requires great craftsmanship and time. Six rows of three calibrated sapphires each also occupy the present link bracelet. Simple and modern, they are grouped together in graphic rows. Presumably, these are synthetic sapphires produced using the Verneuil process: A great sensation at the time. These Verneuil gemstones were particularly popular for calibré work, and were also set on a par with diamonds. Just as modern as their setting, the gold links do not follow any naturalistic ornamentation. They wrap themselves around the sapphire strips and are each powerfully connected by three further links. In this way, the bracelet acquires a beautiful flexibility and nestles softly around the wrist.

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You can rely on our years of experience in the trade and our expertise as a professional art historians for reviews of the antique jewellery. As a member of various trader organisations and the British Society of Jewellery Historians, we remain committed to the highest possible degree of accuracy. In our descriptions, we always also indicate any signs of age and defects and never hide them in our photos – this saves you from any unpleasant surprises when your package arrives.

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We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.

If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.