Gleam and texture

Expressive vintage ring with ruby & diamonds in gold, around 1970

Structure was the big theme in the art of the 1960s and 1970s. In the visual arts, one might think here of Günther Uecker's nail pictures or his embossed prints, which consist merely of impressions taken from nails on white handmade paper. But the preoccupation with structure also reached the field of jewellery. "Textures fascinate craftsmen today more than ever before," wrote Graham Hughes, then secretary of the historic Worshipful Company of Goldsmiths, the English professional association of goldsmiths, as early as 1963 (Hughes, Modern Jewelry, London 1963). At that time, gold in particular was allowed to take on structures reminiscent of sand or tree bark, but taken on their own and in the context of the jewellery they always appeared abstract. This is illustrated particularly well by the band of the present ring, which is made of high-carat gold. Broadly worked, it exhibits the scope that allowed the goldsmith to vary the classic theme of the entourage ring with an unusual ring band. The flower-shaped ring head, gleaming in the light, is thus contrasted with a less delicate, but instead expressive and powerful formal language, resulting in a design full of inner tension. The stone presented here between the two ends of the structured band and amidst a wreath of diamonds is a natural ruby of about 2.10 ct. It features a dark red, berry hue with a slight blue tint, which is further accentuated by the subtle white color of the diamonds. Entourage rings like this one were a big fashion of the 1960s and 1970s, and like this one, were perfect for showcasing precious colored stones. As evidenced by a stamp inside the ring band, the ring was imported to London in 1975, so was made before that date. It is in very good condition and comes with an independent appraisal confirming the quality of the materials.

We want you to be 100% satisfied! For that reason, we examine, describe and photograph all of our jewellery with the utmost care.

You can rely on our years of experience in the trade and our expertise as a professional art historians for reviews of the antique jewellery. As a member of various trader organisations and the British Society of Jewellery Historians, we remain committed to the highest possible degree of accuracy. In our descriptions, we always also indicate any signs of age and defects and never hide them in our photos – this saves you from any unpleasant surprises when your package arrives.

Should you for some reason not be satisfied, please don’t hesitate to contact us so that we can begin to find a solution together. In any case, you can return any article within 30 days and we will refund the full purchase price.


We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.

If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.