Darling of the Belle Époque

Exquisite brooch with diamonds in gold & platinum, around 1910

Hardly part of the repertoire of modern goldsmiths and jewellers today, the brooch was once one of the most popular pieces of jewellery of the Belle Époque and could be found in every lady's jewellery wardrobe. From daytime specimens in gold and set with pearls or colourful gemstones to quality diamond pins for the evening, the brooch took many forms. This example, made of gold with a fine platinum face, features high-quality appointments and shows off a beautiful length of more than seven centimeters. A total of 49 old and rose cut diamonds stud the surface of the brooch. Five large old-cut diamonds are arranged in the size gradient and are surrounded by shadow gaps, which not only make them appear larger, but also brighter in the light-dark contrast. Sawn leaf ornaments break through the platinum-covered surface and enrich the play of light from the diamonds with effectively contrasting shadows. Originally, brooches of this type were worn across the top button of a high-necked blouse or used to fasten a bow or shawl across the chest: "Large - long - brooches likewise in lace design inside the more solid frame and set entirely in white enhance the effect of the lace veils and lace muslin bows worn so much" (Deutsche Goldschmiede-Zeitung, No. 31, 1910, p. 279). The change of fashions has not diminished the versatility of the stick pin, as it can also be worn on the lapel of a blazer or coat. The brooch has been preserved in its original case by the jeweller Carl Frey & Söhne, Hofjuweliere in Breslau, and came to us in southern Germany.

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You can rely on our years of experience in the trade and our expertise as a professional art historians for reviews of the antique jewellery. As a member of various trader organisations and the British Society of Jewellery Historians, we remain committed to the highest possible degree of accuracy. In our descriptions, we always also indicate any signs of age and defects and never hide them in our photos – this saves you from any unpleasant surprises when your package arrives.

Should you for some reason not be satisfied, please don’t hesitate to contact us so that we can begin to find a solution together. In any case, you can return any article within 30 days and we will refund the full purchase price.


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We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.

If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.

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