Jewelry Stories

Exquisite Art Deco ring with sapphire & diamonds, Germany circa 1925

Jewellery in elegant, cool and noble white - that has been the dream of jewellery designers since the late 19th century. But the technical possibilities put a stop to this dream for some time. White diamonds were available, but the tricky part was finding the right metal. At first, only silver was commonly used to create white jewellery from, but the metal tarnishes and can leave discolouration on skin and clothes. Since the years around 1900 platinum was used more and more, but it was difficult to work with and the metal was still much more expensive than gold, so that it mostly remained with thin layers of platinum on the front side of the pieces. When the Pforzheim entrepreneur Karl Richter registered the patent for white gold in 1914, this seemed to be the solution. However, the early white gold alloys were still quite yellowish and also somewhat brittle, so that the fronts of these pieces of jewellery usually still bore a layer of platinum in favour of a whiter colour and finer finish of the surface. This unusual combination of metals is quite peculiar to Art Deco jewels and allows us to be quite certain that the ring is an original from the turbulent years of the Weimar Republic. At the center of the design is a dark blue sapphire that displays intense blue reflections depending on the incidence of light. At the top and bottom, two old-cut diamonds stand alongside it, each of which was cut as early as the 19th century, as evidenced by its cushion shape. Setting older diamonds and using them for modern creations was quite common at the time: even in old catalogues from the Art Deco years, jewellery manufacturers advertised that they could do this on behalf of customers. On the one hand, this saved money, but on the other hand, it continued the history of one's own heirlooms. At the sides of these historic gemstones, a mesh of fine milgrain handles and delicate shadow gaps unfolds, giving the ring an elegant lightness despite its present size. The ring is very well preserved. On the one hand a piece of jewellery history of the Weimar Republic, on the other hand it tells through its materials events that go even beyond its own manufacture.

We want you to be 100% satisfied! For that reason, we examine, describe and photograph all of our jewellery with the utmost care.

You can rely on our years of experience in the trade and our expertise as a professional art historians for reviews of the antique jewellery. As a member of various trader organisations and the British Society of Jewellery Historians, we remain committed to the highest possible degree of accuracy. In our descriptions, we always also indicate any signs of age and defects and never hide them in our photos – this saves you from any unpleasant surprises when your package arrives.

Should you for some reason not be satisfied, please don’t hesitate to contact us so that we can begin to find a solution together. In any case, you can return any article within 30 days and we will refund the full purchase price.


We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.

If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.