A gift of love

Exquisite vintage ring with 2,00 ct diamonds in platinum, Belgium, dated 1957

In the 1950s, with the economic miracle, Europe experienced a previously unseen increase in wealth and quality of life. After the sorrows of the war years, shop displays shone in new luxury, and jewellery and watches served to visibly display the new joie de vivre to the outside world. The style of the jewellery of these years was often oriented towards the late Art Déco, as it had been developed since the 1920s and continued to influence the designs of the large goldsmith companies, especially in the USA and France: clear geometries and an exuberant sparkle of high-quality gemstones determined this look. This ring, which can be dated to 1957 by means of an engraving within the shank, is a jewel typical of this era. The jewel is made of platinum and white gold and presents a sparkling set of diamonds arranged in the shape of a stylized blossom. The design groups sixteen brilliant-cut diamonds around a transitional-cut single carat. The stones are set in airy claw settings, which enhances their brilliance by allowing more light to enter from the side. The brilliance of the opulent ring head is thus structured and at the same time nobilized by the chic strictness of the goldsmith's work. According to the hallmarks, the ring was made in Belgium. The fact that it presents an opulent diamond setting is certainly no coincidence, as the Belgian city of Antwerp has been the center of the European diamond trade and diamond cutting for centuries. The design language of the 1950s ring is modern and geometric, elegant and clear. It came to us here in Berlin. A magnificently designed vintage diamond ring with class!

In ancient times, diamonds were valued primarily for their incomparable hardness. As symbols of invincible strength, their beauty was secondary at best. In fact, early diamonds do not appear at all attractive to the modern eye. Medieval cutting techniques also did not allow for spectacular light reflections, and the widespread table cuts only brought out the brightness and color of the stones. All this changed in the course of the 17th century. The nobility of the Baroque period developed a taste for glittering gemstones. Rose-cut diamonds, whose many facets reflected candlelight beautifully, were particularly popular. In the middle of the century, a first, early brilliant cut developed, called the Mazarin cut after the influential Cardinal Jules Mazarin, characterized by a crown of 17 facets. By the end of the century, these diamonds were then replaced by a new shape, named the Peruzzi cut after its inventor. Vincenzo Peruzzi was a gem cutter from Venice, who increased the crown of the diamonds by additional facets to a total of 33, thus increasing the fire of the stones enormously. However, these early brilliant diamonds were not standardized in terms of the number and shape of the facets. Each stone was cut in such a way that as much substance as possible could be preserved. New diamond deposits in Brazil in the second half of the 18th century then led to a cut shape that became known as the Old Mine Cut. These diamonds are already very similar to today's full-cut diamonds, but several generations of continuous improvement of the cutting technique were necessary until the Old Mine Cut became the Old European Cut, and finally the modern full cut in the 1940s.

We want you to be 100% satisfied! For that reason, we examine, describe and photograph all of our jewellery with the utmost care.

You can rely on our years of experience in the trade and our expertise as a professional art historians for reviews of the antique jewellery. As a member of various trader organisations and the British Society of Jewellery Historians, we remain committed to the highest possible degree of accuracy. In our descriptions, we always also indicate any signs of age and defects and never hide them in our photos – this saves you from any unpleasant surprises when your package arrives.

Should you for some reason not be satisfied, please don’t hesitate to contact us so that we can begin to find a solution together. In any case, you can return any article within 30 days and we will refund the full purchase price.


OUR PROMISE

We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.

If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.

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