Past, present, future
Exquisite vintage trilogy ring with diamonds, Germany circa 1950
Rings with curved bands, between the ends of which precious gemstones or pearls are presented, are first encountered in the years around 1900. Inspired by the dynamic forms of Art Nouveau, this jewelry fashion quickly became a great success. No wonder that corresponding designs remained fashionable well into the 1950s, despite all other changes in taste. The ring in question here, which has three brilliant-cut diamonds weighing a total of about 0.68 carats enclosed in a sparkling row between its arms, was created in the years around 1950. The cut of the diamonds and the solid construction, as well as the altogether more opulent use of materials, are characteristic of jewellery of the post-war period, even if the design itself still retains quite the beautiful sweep of Art Nouveau. An old tradition also gives the three diamonds in the center of the ring a symbolic meaning. Rings like this are called "trilogy rings" and the three diamonds are seen as a sign of the lovers' shared past, present and future, in other words, of a life lived together. The ring is beautifully preserved and came to us from Munich.
In ancient times, diamonds were valued primarily for their incomparable hardness. As symbols of invincible strength, their beauty was secondary at best. In fact, early diamonds do not appear at all attractive to the modern eye. Medieval cutting techniques also did not allow for spectacular light reflections, and the widespread table cuts only brought out the brightness and color of the stones. All this changed in the course of the 17th century. The nobility of the Baroque period developed a taste for glittering gemstones. Rose-cut diamonds, whose many facets reflected candlelight beautifully, were particularly popular. In the middle of the century, a first, early brilliant cut developed, called the Mazarin cut after the influential Cardinal Jules Mazarin, characterized by a crown of 17 facets. By the end of the century, these diamonds were then replaced by a new shape, named the Peruzzi cut after its inventor. Vincenzo Peruzzi was a gem cutter from Venice, who increased the crown of the diamonds by additional facets to a total of 33, thus increasing the fire of the stones enormously. However, these early brilliant diamonds were not standardized in terms of the number and shape of the facets. Each stone was cut in such a way that as much substance as possible could be preserved. New diamond deposits in Brazil in the second half of the 18th century then led to a cut shape that became known as the Old Mine Cut. These diamonds are already very similar to today's full-cut diamonds, but it would take several more generations of continuous development of the cutting technique before the Old Mine Cut became the Old European Cut, and finally, in the 1940s, the modern full cut.
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You can rely on our years of experience in the trade and our expertise as a professional art historians for reviews of the antique jewellery. As a member of various trader organisations and the British Society of Jewellery Historians, we remain committed to the highest possible degree of accuracy. In our descriptions, we always also indicate any signs of age and defects and never hide them in our photos – this saves you from any unpleasant surprises when your package arrives.
Should you for some reason not be satisfied, please don’t hesitate to contact us so that we can begin to find a solution together. In any case, you can return any article within 30 days and we will refund the full purchase price.
We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.
If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.