Retro Style from Portugal

Extravagant Art Deco ring with diamond & spinels, Lisbon circa 1945

In the late 1930s, Parisian jewellery houses in particular developed a style of Art Deco known to us today as the "retro style". It was distinguished by warm gold tones and expansive shapes from the cool, graphic designs in diamond-studded platinum that had characterized the decade before. Soon this new style spread throughout the Western world. The reason for such a change was not initially due to a pure desire for change. Platinum, for example, was de facto no longer available to goldsmiths in sufficient quantities by the start of the war at the latest, so the switch to gold was not merely voluntary. Likewise, the trade routes for the supply of precious gemstones were interrupted, which is why one often finds older stones in secondary use in the precious jewellery of the 1940s, further emphasising their unique character. For making a virtue out of necessity - that is what the goldsmiths of the late 1930s and 1940s excelled at. An old-cut diamond, probably cut in the years around 1900, and two synthetic spinels are also the protagonists of this ring from around 1945. The sculptural form of the large ring head is reminiscent of folded lengths of fabric. Millegriffes and small diamond roses enrich the design made of gold and silver. According to the hallmarks, the ring was made in the Portuguese capital of Lisbon.

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You can rely on our years of experience in the trade and our expertise as a professional art historians for reviews of the antique jewellery. As a member of various trader organisations and the British Society of Jewellery Historians, we remain committed to the highest possible degree of accuracy. In our descriptions, we always also indicate any signs of age and defects and never hide them in our photos – this saves you from any unpleasant surprises when your package arrives.

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We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.

If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.