Parisian chic

Vintage clip by Boucheron in gold & diamonds, 1950s

Golden as a summer day and glittering like dewdrops, such splendid shimmers the large brooch presented here and takes its viewers to Paris. The center of modern art had never ceased to shine even in the dark times of occupation. But especially in years after the world war, great works of jeweler's art were created here, in large forms and powerful designs, which should express the regained freedom and joy of life. The fascinating clip is a child of this fashion and is shown in the typical design language of the 1950s, oscillating between natural fidelity and abstraction. The brooch consists of stylized leaf ornaments that form an elegant arc in dynamic sweep. Twenty-one brilliant-cut diamonds with a total weight of more than one carat glitter as if randomly scattered between them, shining as bright points of light between the golden leaves. The engraving on the double pin reveals that the brooch comes from the workshops of the Boucheron jewelry house in Paris. Since its foundation by Frédéric Boucheron in 1858, the Maison has made a name for itself especially in the processing of gold. Great pieces of jewelry made of precious gems can also be found time and again among the jeweler's creations, but it was above all the sunny precious metal that was the focus of the company's attention. This can be wonderfully observed in the present clip brooch: It is the leaves of gold, interestingly structured, which give the piece its expression and inner movement. The white diamonds complement the design, but it is the gold above all that creates the lasting impression of the design. For dating, see corresponding flower and blossom brooches of the period in David Bennet and Daniela Mascetti: Understanding Jewellery, Woodbridge 2010, pp. 381-386.

One of the most beautiful and typical pieces of Art Deco jewelry is the clip. Extravagant, precious, usually set with diamonds, have produced Cartier, Boucheron, Van Cleef and Arpels from the late 1920s in Paris and soon followed them the goldsmiths of the whole world. What was special about this new type of brooch was that it could no longer be worn only on the lapel, but anywhere on the dress, on the belt, on the bag and even in the hair. Often as a pair, but gladly also individually, could be set so surprising accents, which were not possible so far. At the time of their introduction, the shape of the clips was initially flat, the surfaces richly set with diamonds. In the course of the 1930s, more voluminous, geometric shapes came into fashion. Also, yellow gold again replaced the previously favored white gold, in line with the general trend of Art Deco. One last innovation before the upheaval of the Great War was the redesign of the back holder towards the end of the 1930s. Whereas previously there had been a single large plate with a spring mechanism, now two interconnected pins were used. On the history of the clip, see David Bennett/Daniela Mascetti: Understanding Jewellery, Woodbridge 2010, pp. 322-325, with numerous illustrations.

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We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.

If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.

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