Red lips should be kissed

Fine vintage ring with rubies & diamonds in gold, Italy circa 1985

Whether marquise or navette ring - these designations refer to a characteristic, pointed oval shape, which the present ring also shows in a tongue-in-cheek variation. It, too, forms a two-pointed shape in its center, which is set with sparkling diamonds. But why "marquise?" Supposedly, so the story goes, the name for this shape appeared as early as the Rococo period. Louis XV is said to have commissioned a gem cutter to invent a gem cut that reminded him of the smile of his mistress: the equally beautiful and influential Marquise de Pompadour. At the center of this ring are ten sparkling brilliant-cut diamonds totaling about 0.30 ct, framed by two bands of bright red rubies running above and below and actually resembling red lips. In the combination of diamonds and rubies, one might also suspect a romantic connotation in terms of content, since in the 19th century in particular, these gemstones were seen as referring to love. "Rubies are particularly suitable for young lovers [...] In general, it is considered the symbol of the most passionate and ardent love," wrote the ladies' journal Bazar in November 1886. This finely crafted vintage ring was made around 1985 in Padua, Italy, when not only such rings but also jewelry made of high karat gold were booming. It is excellently preserved and equally wearable collector's item as well as a gift of love with rich references to the history of jewellery. It found its way to us here in Berlin.

We want you to be 100% satisfied! For that reason, we examine, describe and photograph all of our jewellery with the utmost care.

You can rely on our years of experience in the trade and our expertise as a professional art historians for reviews of the antique jewellery. As a member of various trader organisations and the British Society of Jewellery Historians, we remain committed to the highest possible degree of accuracy. In our descriptions, we always also indicate any signs of age and defects and never hide them in our photos – this saves you from any unpleasant surprises when your package arrives.

Should you for some reason not be satisfied, please don’t hesitate to contact us so that we can begin to find a solution together. In any case, you can return any article within 30 days and we will refund the full purchase price.


We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.

If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.