Granulated gold ring with cultured pearl, Germany 1950s
The ring presented here demonstrates an ancient goldsmithing technique of particular craftsmanship that is very rarely used today. Because it is so infinitely difficult to master, most goldsmiths of our time do not dare to make jewellery like this. We are talking about granulation. In this originally Etruscan goldsmithing technique, tiny gold or silver beads are soldered onto a precious metal and only joined together at their respective tiny points of contact. Light and shadow on the surfaces thus granulated create a sculptural effect, and this is precisely what makes granulation work so appealing. The difficulty with this technique is the exact adjustment of the melting point, because if the granulation beads get just a little too hot, the work immediately melts away. Johann Michael Wilm in Munich was one of the first goldsmiths in the early 1920s to produce granulations in the 20th century that stood comparison with the antique models; Elisabeth Treskow then also began to produce granulations at a high creative level in Essen in the same years. Treskow's private collection can be admired today in the Museum of Applied Arts in Cologne, and the State Collection of Classical Antiquities in Munich also exhibits a large number of pieces of jewellery with granulations. The present ring of yellow gold presents centrally a white cultured pearl with a beautiful luster. The sea treasure is embedded in a bowl, which is set into a flat dome. The surface of this dome is decorated with a fine granulation of granulated serrated bands. The plasticity of the granulations creates a beautiful play of light and shadow on the surface of the ring head, reminiscent in its design of the works of Johann Michael Wilms. The ring came to us from the Saarland and is a beautiful testimony of today's almost forgotten craftsmanship.
The fashion colour of Art Déco was initially white, as it had been since the turn of the century: diamonds and platinum defined the designs of the 1920s. In the course of time, Art Déco then developed further. From the 1930s onwards, gold made a comeback and was particularly popular in combination with coloured stones.
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We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.
If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.