Artfully calibrated

Graphic ring with pearl, diamonds & sapphires, around 1910

Calibrated colored stones, i.e. cut to fit predetermined shapes, were a specialty of the early 20th century. In combination of colored stones with diamonds, one loved the effective contrast effects of light and dark, which further emphasized the geometric designs. Cut sapphires and rose-cut diamonds also structure this ring in a pattern of contrasting stripes. A large, warmly shimmering pearl in the center breaks this cool geometry both materially and formally. The ring head gleams white in platinum. Delicate leaf elements lead over to a narrow, golden ring rail whose shoulders are also covered in platinum. The ring makes use of the effective juxtaposition of different shapes and materials and unites them in an exciting design that is appealing for its lightness and freshness. Cf. on the fashion for calibrated jewels in the early 19th century David Bennet and Daniela Mascetti: Understanding Jewellery, Woodbridge 2010, p. 287, also pp. 282f. et al.

Rose-cut diamonds - also called "rose couronée", "crowned roses" - can already be found in jewellery from the 16th century. Numerous famous diamonds such as the Orloff and the Grand Mogul are designed in this rose cut. It is characterized by the fact that the upper side of the diamond is faceted in a star shape and the underside is cut flat. This creates a very specific, soft shimmer that is very different from the sometimes garish glow of today's brilliant-cut diamonds.

We want you to be 100% satisfied! For that reason, we examine, describe and photograph all of our jewellery with the utmost care.

You can rely on our years of experience in the trade and our expertise as a professional art historians for reviews of the antique jewellery. As a member of various trader organisations and the British Society of Jewellery Historians, we remain committed to the highest possible degree of accuracy. In our descriptions, we always also indicate any signs of age and defects and never hide them in our photos – this saves you from any unpleasant surprises when your package arrives.

Should you for some reason not be satisfied, please don’t hesitate to contact us so that we can begin to find a solution together. In any case, you can return any article within 30 days and we will refund the full purchase price.


We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.

If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.