Southern Cross

Graphic vintage ruby & diamond ring in white gold, Italy 1990s

"Order must be!" the goldsmith of this ring must have thought to himself when faced with the problem of in what way to compose 28 first-class brilliant-cut diamonds and a radiantly beautiful, natural ruby into a ring. There were many possibilities. But it quickly became clear that the diamonds should frame the wonderful, intensely pink ruby. This type of ring, in which a large gemstone is framed in the center by fine diamonds, is called an entourage ring, from the French "entourage": company, entourage. This type of ring first came into vogue around 1900 - and since then has been a permanent fixture in the world of jewellery in ever new variations. Here, the diamonds form two frames around the ruby, transforming its oval shape into a rectangle and finally into a cross shape. Like the ring, this clever play with geometry is executed in white gold. The white, bright light of the diamonds can thus be shown off to its best advantage. Especially in daylight, in direct sunlight, the ring shines and sparkles in a way that could not be painted more beautifully. The ruby, meanwhile, is held in place by four double lobes of yellow gold: This, too, is deliberately chosen to match the color of the gemstone. This gives the stone a warmer appearance and the claws are less noticeable than if they had also been made of white gold. The ring was made in Italy according to its hallmark. Based on its design, the quality of the materials and the workmanship, it was probably made in the 1990s. Since then it has been well cared for and is in excellent condition. An independent certificate from a renowned gemstone testing laboratory is included with the ring.

The ruby is the red variety of the mineral corundum. Corundum can be found in almost all colors of the rainbow, even completely colorless stones are among them. But while all these stones can also be addressed as sapphires, only the magnificently red stones of this mineral genus are rubies. Among the coloured stones, the ruby is by far the most valuable stone; only particularly high-quality pink, blue or green diamonds fetch higher prices today. Throughout history, the best rubies have always been mined in Burma, around the city of Mogok. They are characterized by an intense pink-red color, also known as "pigeon's blood". The best stones seem to glow as if from an inner fire, which is best visible in daylight: stones that still shine fantastically red in artificial light can appear washed out under the sun. According to tradition, rubies are divine, princely stones. Since their color is reminiscent of blood and blazing fire, their connection to burning love was quite natural. Supposedly they even prevent diseases and give proud, fresh courage. Indian princes therefore even had themselves addressed as "King of Rubies".

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You can rely on our years of experience in the trade and our expertise as a professional art historians for reviews of the antique jewellery. As a member of various trader organisations and the British Society of Jewellery Historians, we remain committed to the highest possible degree of accuracy. In our descriptions, we always also indicate any signs of age and defects and never hide them in our photos – this saves you from any unpleasant surprises when your package arrives.

Should you for some reason not be satisfied, please don’t hesitate to contact us so that we can begin to find a solution together. In any case, you can return any article within 30 days and we will refund the full purchase price.


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We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.

If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.

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