fleur de Paris

Vintage Clip by Boucheron with Diamonds & Lapis Lazuli, 1940s

The glamorous vintage brooch at hand takes us back to the 1940s, and to Paris. Unlike other capitals of Europe, Paris had not stopped its jewellery production even in times of war. Important works of the “haute joaillerie” were still being produced by the big names if jewellery: and by way of lavish designs and colourful materials, one was made to forget the constraints and worries of wartime. The clip brooch at hand is one such piece. It is made in the shape of a flower, combined with an airy, elegantly curved feather. The flower's golden petals surround stamina of diamonds and lapis lazuli, and we are made to see a likeness in the shape and curl of the petals and feather. The piece bears the mark of the grand jewellery house Boucheron, Paris. Since it was founded in 1858 by Frédéric Boucheron, the maison has been known especially for its use of gold. Even though Boucheron has produced beautiful pieces made of large, coloured gemstones, the use of gold has always been a focal point of the house's characteristic designs. This brooch, too, makes gold the centre of attention: large planes of the warm-toned material, glossy and polished, shape our impression of the piece. The blue colour of the lapis lazuli and the gleaming accents of the diamonds serve mainly to intensify the gold's colour. How could one not think of Paris, of the golden hues of the city, characterised by the century-long use of sandstone? Comparable floral brooches dating to the time can be found in David Bennet und Daniela Mascetti: Understanding Jewellery, Woodbridge 2010, pp. 381-386.

One of the most beautiful and typical pieces of Art Deco jewellery is the clip. Extravagant, precious examples, mostly set with diamonds, were produced by Cartier, Boucheron and Van Cleef and Arpels in Paris from the late 1920s onwards and were soon followed by goldsmiths all over the world. The special thing about this new type of brooch was that it could no longer be worn only on the lapel, but everywhere on the dress, on the belt, on the bag and even in the hair. Often as a pair, but also individually, surprising accents could be set, which had not been possible before. At the time of their introduction, the shape of the clips was initially flat, the surfaces richly set with diamonds. In the course of the 1930s, more voluminous, geometric shapes came into fashion. Yellow gold also replaced the previously favoured white gold, in line with the general Art Deco trend. A final innovation before the upheaval of the Great War was the redesign of the back holder towards the end of the 1930s. Whereas previously there had been a single large plate with a spring mechanism, now two interconnected pins were used. On the history of the clip, see David Bennett/Daniela Mascetti: Understanding Jewellery, Woodbridge 2010, pp. 322-325, with numerous illustrations.

We want you to be 100% satisfied! For that reason, we examine, describe and photograph all of our jewellery with the utmost care.

You can rely on our years of experience in the trade and our expertise as a professional art historians for reviews of the antique jewellery. As a member of various trader organisations and the British Society of Jewellery Historians, we remain committed to the highest possible degree of accuracy. In our descriptions, we always also indicate any signs of age and defects and never hide them in our photos – this saves you from any unpleasant surprises when your package arrives.

Should you for some reason not be satisfied, please don’t hesitate to contact us so that we can begin to find a solution together. In any case, you can return any article within 30 days and we will refund the full purchase price.


OUR PROMISE

We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.

If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.

Play