Large luxurious emerald ring with antique old cut diamonds in gold, 1950s
In earlier generations, anyone who wanted to own jewellery in the latest fashion rarely went to the jeweller to buy an already finished piece. Far more often the way led to the goldsmith, in order to have there after own ideas and in the exchange with the craftsman a new piece of jewellery made. Although even in the 19th century there were already large jeweller's department stores with an immense selection offering ready-made manufactured goods for sale, the older tradition of having jewellery made individually was still alive. A typical procedure can be observed again and again: Instead of creating the new pieces completely from scratch, existing rings, brooches and necklaces were often included and reused in parts. In this way, pieces were created that continued the history of one's own family and could thus be both traditional and modern at the same time. The magnificent ring presented here shows that this procedure was not only common in the 19th century, but can also be found again and again later. The magnificent and precious ring, which is presented here with a wonderful emerald and numerous diamonds, unites very different generations in one piece of jewellery. The ring head is set with its incomparable green glowing natural emerald and two sparkling, large old-cut cushion-shaped diamonds that form an impressive row. Each stone is individually set in a frame, the emerald in gold, the diamonds effectively in silver. Ten additional diamonds set the ring shoulders and sweeping leaf ornaments that visually connect the individual pieces. According to the hallmarking, the ring was made in Czechoslovakia in the 1950s, but the two large cushion-cut diamonds certainly date from the 19th century, as cuts of this type were no longer made at the time the ring was made. It is also possible that the emerald is an antique gemstone. The ring thus spans a period of about 80 years and is therefore a truly historic piece of jewellery. It is in first-class condition. The quality of the exquisite materials is confirmed by a newly prepared, independent appraisal from a renowned laboratory in Idar-Oberstein, which is of course included with the ring.
In ancient times, diamonds were valued primarily for their incomparable hardness. As symbols of invincible strength, their beauty was secondary at best. In fact, early diamonds do not appear at all attractive to the modern eye. Medieval cutting techniques also did not allow for spectacular light reflections, and the widespread table cuts only brought out the brightness and color of the stones. All this changed in the course of the 17th century. The nobility of the Baroque period developed a taste for glittering gemstones. Rose-cut diamonds, whose many facets reflected candlelight beautifully, were particularly popular. In the middle of the century, a first, early brilliant cut developed, called the Mazarin cut after the influential Cardinal Jules Mazarin, characterized by a crown of 17 facets. By the end of the century, these diamonds were then replaced by a new shape, named the Peruzzi cut after its inventor. Vincenzo Peruzzi was a gem cutter from Venice, who increased the crown of the diamonds by additional facets to a total of 33, thus increasing the fire of the stones enormously. However, these early brilliant diamonds were not standardized in terms of the number and shape of the facets. Each stone was cut in such a way that as much substance as possible could be preserved. New diamond deposits in Brazil in the second half of the 18th century then led to a cut shape that became known as the Old Mine Cut. These diamonds are already very similar to today's full-cut diamonds, but several generations of continuous improvement of the cutting technique were necessary until the Old Mine Cut became the Old European Cut, and finally the modern full cut in the 1940s.
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You can rely on our years of experience in the trade and our expertise as a professional art historians for reviews of the antique jewellery. As a member of various trader organisations and the British Society of Jewellery Historians, we remain committed to the highest possible degree of accuracy. In our descriptions, we always also indicate any signs of age and defects and never hide them in our photos – this saves you from any unpleasant surprises when your package arrives.
Should you for some reason not be satisfied, please don’t hesitate to contact us so that we can begin to find a solution together. In any case, you can return any article within 30 days and we will refund the full purchase price.
We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.
If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.