Face of Expressionism

Handmade silver brooch, attributed to Irmgard Fuss, c. 1925

Of all the types of jewellery, the brooch is probably the piece that gives the designer the greatest freedom. Hardly any consideration has to be given to wearability here, quite unlike the ring, for example. There are no limits to shape, size and colour. No wonder that so many great jewellery designers such as René Lalique or Jean Schlumberger have become famous for their brooches. The brooch presented here is no exception and cheerfully and elegantly demonstrates the expressive formal preferences of early Art Deco. It shows a woman's head peering out between abstracting forms. We think we recognize plants, lines of movement and mere ornaments, entirely in keeping with the taste of the mid-1920s. Early Art Deco in Central Europe loved geometry and at the same time bizarre, abstracted natural forms, which can be found as much in jewelry as in contemporary architecture and fashion. Compare, for example, the grilles and decorative paintings of the Renaissance Theater in Berlin, rebuilt 1926-1928, or the Grassi Museum in Leipzig, 1926/27. Then, from about 1930, the forms became calmer again and new references to the Rococo and Biedermeier were incorporated. The silver brooch shows great similarities to works by the Stuttgart-born goldsmith Irmgard Fuss, who was already learning from Robert Fischer in Schwäbisch Gmündt at the age of 16. This brooch was also created or designed by her with some certainty. Cf. the illustrations of a brooch as the last illustration as well as Christianne Weber: Schmuck der 20er und 30er Jahre in Deutschland, Stuttgart 1990, p. 55., p. 177.

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We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.

If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.