Love in times of war
Hand-made Art Deco ring with diamonds, around 1940
Two early brilliant cut diamonds shine starry bright. Gleaming gold surrounds the diamonds totaling 0.16 ct in angular and voluminously curved shapes. The under-cadence shows airy sweeps with the ring shoulders bearing white gold accents that add a playful touch to the otherwise austere design. It is a play of contrasts that enlivens the ring and yet dissolves into a harmonious whole. The delight in geometry that informs the ring's design harks back to the turbulent era of late Art Deco. Since the beginning of the 1920s, designers throughout Europe had repeatedly ventured to play with clear geometries in order to overcome the loveliness of Art Nouveau. While the first designs were mostly filigree and white, coolly gleaming in platinum and diamonds, the fashion changed from around 1930 towards yellow-gold, more expansive works. In English-speaking countries, a more precise distinction is made here between Art Deco (the ethereal, white jewellery of the first phase) and so-called Retro Jewellery, i.e. the sculptural designs of the period from 1930 onwards. The ring here was made in Germany, as evidenced by its stamping inside the ring band. Its design and workmanship show that it was forged in the years around 1940. As a rather rare testimony to the reception of late Art Deco, it came to us here in Berlin in search of a new wearer.
The 1920s brought a new style to the world of jewellery with Art Deco: geometric abstractions, noble materials and luxurious fittings were sought after and supplied by goldsmiths in Paris, London and Vienna as well as by their colleagues in Berlin and overseas. The longer and wider the style spread, the more developed the forms became. In France and the USA, for example, a special form of late Art Deco called "retro" jewellery emerged in the years after 1930: The forms became stronger, more physical, the volumes larger and the jewellery once again more splendid, whereby the colourfulness of the stones and metal used played a major role. But not only the shapes changed, also the colours of the jewellery changed after some time: the fashion of the years from 1940 onwards, for example, preferred jewellery made of yellow or red gold to those made of platinum or white gold and coloured stones replaced diamonds in their popularity. The surfaces of the gold were fanned out geometrically and the jewels were conceived almost like cubist architectures.
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We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.
If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.