The Pleasure Garden
High-carat platinum Art Deco bracelet with 9.30 carats of diamonds, circa 1925
Alfred Hitchcock's first completed feature film "The Pleasure Garden" was the success of the year in 1925. No wonder, because who of the viewers of that time would not have liked to fall into passion with the silent film diva Virginia Valli? Like the film, this bracelet dates from that period of dazzling glamour and quick fortune between the wars. Bracelets made of platinum, set with brilliant white diamonds, were the great passion of the ladies' world in the 1920s and 1930s. Every self-respecting lady who could afford it wore such treasures - often not just individually, but several of them combined to form a radiant arrangement of pure luxury on her wrist. This is how we know the Hollywood stars of those years in old black-and-white photographs that still shape our idea of the self-determined woman of those years today. The bracelet here is made entirely of platinum and features 236 sparkling diamonds in historic cuts in its geometric design. The sparkling stones, with a total weight of 9.30 carats, occupy two times four links, each with a similar design. The larger, articulated elements feature three larger diamonds at their center, framed by shadow gaps and many smaller diamonds in settings adorned with mille handles. Rectangular, smaller links with indented corners connect the links with small bars. The design thus has no fancy side, but is equally beautiful all around. This is practical, because the bracelet, which flows softly around the wrist, can thus turn at will on the arm and looks wonderful from every perspective. Delicate shadow gaps, tiny millegraps that effectively break down the ridges of the platinum into thousands of tiny reflective surfaces, and the precision with which the diamonds are set close together show the mastery of the goldsmith who executed them. The bracelet found its way to us here in Berlin and is beautifully preserved. An independent appraisal from Idar Oberstein is included with the bracelet.
With the invention of gaslight and then electric light at the end of the 19th century, glistening brightness suddenly filled the ballrooms of Europe. No longer dark, yellow candlelight, but the white glow of hundreds of lamps made the ladies' jewellery shine and glitter as never before. No wonder that as a result of these developments, a new fashion also emerged: white jewels made of diamonds and silver responded to the new lighting conditions and replaced the previous more colourful designs. In general, jewellery was increasingly richly set with sparkling gems to create an ever more luxurious and rich appearance. At the great balls in Paris, London and St. Petersburg, ever more magnificent diamond necklaces were presented, as well as tiaras, brooches and rings, all dreams in white diamonds. The name of the era, the Belle Époque, still indicates the goal of the period: To shine in beauty. But the fashion for white jewellery also remained current in the following decades, right up to the Art Déco of the 1920s. Only the materials of the settings changed. The rapidly tarnishing silver was first replaced by platinum settings and later by jewellery made entirely of platinum or the white gold developed shortly before the world war.
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You can rely on our years of experience in the trade and our expertise as a professional art historians for reviews of the antique jewellery. As a member of various trader organisations and the British Society of Jewellery Historians, we remain committed to the highest possible degree of accuracy. In our descriptions, we always also indicate any signs of age and defects and never hide them in our photos – this saves you from any unpleasant surprises when your package arrives.
Should you for some reason not be satisfied, please don’t hesitate to contact us so that we can begin to find a solution together. In any case, you can return any article within 30 days and we will refund the full purchase price.
We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.
If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.