Cool seduction

Precious Art Deco diamond & ruby ring in white gold, circa 1925

This white gold ring, richly set with a blood-red ruby and large, sparkling old brilliant-cut diamonds, is at once seductive and cool. The materials, even the ruby, glow with an icy light. Elegant, reduced to basic forms, devoid of any superfluous ornamentation, the goldsmith has radically freed himself from all the cloying ornamentation of the 19th century - and in the years around 1925 created a ring that was meant to be clear, cool, enchanting and above all: modern. The broad frames of the large diamonds, for example, are polished smooth, wider than in any jewellery before, and without any millegriffes decoration. This makes the large half-carat stones appear almost floating, on display and like carefully presented objects, as their contours are not lost in a vague drum of shapes. This becomes clear when compared with the smaller stones, which tend to disappear into the surface of the ring shoulders. It is astonishing how dramatically the ring breaks with many traditions of jewellery design - and yet how many traditions it retains at the same time. The basic form as a shuttle ring had been fashionable since the turn of the century. Here, a sequence of two smaller diamonds and the ruby is superimposed on top of the juxtaposition of the two diamonds, so that two motifs overlap. The toi-et-moi of the large diamonds has been considered a symbol of two lovers since time immemorial. The triad of the smaller stones is interpreted in the tradition of jewellery design as a temporal step of yesterday, today and tomorrow with a special meaning to the present, symbolised by the ruby in the colour of love. The unusual ring thus combines a romantic symbolism with a modern, powerful formal language: for the double face of its time of origin, the Janus-faced years between the wars, torn between modernity and romanticism, departure and tradition, there is therefore probably no more typical example.

"The jewels were a composition of diamonds and rubies, and looked as delicate, pure, and noble as a mediæval work of art set in colors. A veritable enchantment lay about this intimacy of water-glow and rose-redness distributed in the sensuous figures, which can only be so taken from the thoughts of our ancestors." Adalbert Stifter: Der Nachsommer, 1857

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We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.

If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.