Antique stone in a new dress
Precious vintage ring with antique diamond in platinum, around 2000
High-quality jewellery attempts a balancing act. It combines the desire to preserve precious materials with the attempt to nevertheless be able to follow the rapidly changing whims of fashion. One consequence of this is that precious gems from old pieces of jewellery that no longer suit taste are often transferred to new pieces of jewellery. This can be observed throughout the ages. In jewelry of the 1920s, for example, diamonds are often found that were already cut in the 19th century. Or also coloured stones with artistic engravings, which were carved even far earlier in India. The ring here, which was created only in the last few years, also bears an antique diamond at its center. It is a brilliant in the cushion-shaped old cut, a so-called old mine cut, which was cut around the middle of the 19th century. It has very good fire and shines with a warm light. The diamond is surrounded by a band of cut rubies. The gemstones, each of which has been specially cut into the setting to create the impression of a continuous line, contrast beautifully against the platinum of their setting, revealing countless tiny facets. Like the petals of a flower, a wreath of white brilliant-cut diamonds then follows on the outside. The idea of forming a ring of calibrated gemstones to accentuate a central gemstone was described as early as 1900 as the "halo effect", as it reminded jewellery designers of light effects on some planets in the starry night sky. The result is a harmonious and rich composition with its own charm, which lives not least from the contrasting colours of the precious gemstones. We discovered the ring in London. It is very well preserved.
In ancient times, diamonds were valued primarily for their incomparable hardness. As symbols of invincible strength, their beauty was secondary at best. In fact, early diamonds do not appear at all attractive to the modern eye. Medieval cutting techniques also did not allow for spectacular light reflections, and the widespread table cuts only brought out the brightness and color of the stones. All this changed in the course of the 17th century. The nobility of the Baroque period developed a taste for glittering gemstones. Rose-cut diamonds, whose many facets reflected candlelight beautifully, were particularly popular. In the middle of the century, a first, early brilliant cut developed, called the Mazarin cut after the influential Cardinal Jules Mazarin, characterized by a crown of 17 facets. By the end of the century, these diamonds were then replaced by a new shape, named the Peruzzi cut after its inventor. Vincenzo Peruzzi was a gem cutter from Venice, who increased the crown of the diamonds by additional facets to a total of 33, thus increasing the fire of the stones enormously. However, these early brilliant diamonds were not standardized in terms of the number and shape of the facets. Each stone was cut in such a way that as much substance as possible could be preserved. New diamond deposits in Brazil in the second half of the 18th century then led to a cut shape that became known as the Old Mine Cut. These diamonds are already very similar to today's full-cut diamonds, but it would take several more generations of continuous development of the cutting technique before the Old Mine Cut became the Old European Cut, and finally, in the 1940s, the modern full cut.
We want you to be 100% satisfied! For that reason, we examine, describe and photograph all of our jewellery with the utmost care.
You can rely on our years of experience in the trade and our expertise as a professional art historians for reviews of the antique jewellery. As a member of various trader organisations and the British Society of Jewellery Historians, we remain committed to the highest possible degree of accuracy. In our descriptions, we always also indicate any signs of age and defects and never hide them in our photos – this saves you from any unpleasant surprises when your package arrives.
Should you for some reason not be satisfied, please don’t hesitate to contact us so that we can begin to find a solution together. In any case, you can return any article within 30 days and we will refund the full purchase price.
We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.
If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.