Everything flows

Precious emerald & diamond necklace of the Art Déco, around 1925

The wild years after the First World War gave women in all European countries a completely new attitude to life and a new self-image. After they had worked for the first time on a large scale in industry and administration, crafts and in the care of the sick during the war, there was no going back to the hearth and the home. The traditional boundaries began to waver, and the general awakening brought with it new short hairstyles, new, body-hugging dresses, and even new, sensual cosmetics. Equally disruptive was the new music of the day. Charleston, Fox Trot, Texas Tommy and numerous other dances of jazz and swing brought a new freedom and physicality to the dance floor as well. New types of jewellery were naturally part of this and it is not surprising that one of the most popular new accessories of the 1920s was the long necklace, which moved with the rhythm of the new music and the movements of the body and underlined the elegance of the dancer. These long strands of pearls, silk ribbons or fine chains were always accompanied by large pendants. Unlike rings or bracelets, there were no restrictions on their function, so the jewellery designers of the time were able to realise their ideas very freely. Therefore, apart from the brooch, there is probably no other piece of jewellery that expresses the geometric expressiveness of Art Deco as well as the pendant. They are usually elongated, symmetrical and of a cool, diamond-studded elegance. Basic geometric shapes, zigzag lines, stepped designs, but also Chinese and Indian influences characterize the best of these works. This necklace shows these principles of form to perfection. A large, powerful pendant is attached to a delicate platinum chain. It is modelled on a buckle, a band of diamond fabric with fringes of onyx appears to be threaded through a luminous green clasp of emeralds. The band, a composition of angular, woven-looking motifs, is made up of three links that are flexibly interconnected, so that the pendant, despite its size, hugs the décolleté in a pleasantly soft way. The platinum necklace is set with more than three carats of diamonds and two carats of natural emeralds. The resulting, reduced colour tone is typical of the era, which clearly contrasts with the richly coloured jewellery of the Art Nouveau period. We purchased the necklace in Vienna. However, its so typical formal language did not necessarily originate on the Danube; similar designs were made in Paris and also in London: For it was a truly European style that sought to make us forget the narrow confines of the time in the short, free years between the wars. An independent expert's report has confirmed the qualities of the materials. It is supplied with the necklace.

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You can rely on our years of experience in the trade and our expertise as a professional art historians for reviews of the antique jewellery. As a member of various trader organisations and the British Society of Jewellery Historians, we remain committed to the highest possible degree of accuracy. In our descriptions, we always also indicate any signs of age and defects and never hide them in our photos – this saves you from any unpleasant surprises when your package arrives.

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We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.

If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.