Shared joy...

Moonlight double clip with diamonds in rose gold, France 1940s

Joy shared is joy doubled! This brooch from France illustrates this particularly well: thanks to a clever mechanism, it can be split and transformed into two clips. As early as the 1930s, people loved clips that could be worn on either side of the neckline, the belt or in still other ways. Here the type was taken up again in the 1940s, until it gave way to the figural brooch a few years later. Stylistically, the double clip is at the forefront of its time. The two brooches, which can be firmly joined by a small element to form a single large brooch, are designed as abstracted cornucopias. From them pours a round of sparkling diamonds. At the same time, their shape is dynamic and reminiscent of curved fabric panels, which was a big fashion in the 1940s. The material of the clips also shows their origin in the 1940s. The late Art Deco had long since changed to the so-called retro style and instead of the white platinum of the 1920s, people now loved warm gold again. Thus, the two clips here are also made of shiny rose gold and only at the ends is platinum added to set the smaller diamonds appropriately. It is in the contrast of warm colour and cool sparkle, of gold and diamonds & platinum, of bold sweep and austere geometry, that a delightful effect is produced. It is a sophisticated, opulent elegance that defined the world of jewellery in those years - defying, if you will, the circumstances of its own time. And yet there is also a hint of the difficulties of those years: For the supply of precious gemstones was difficult at the time, and so diamonds from older stocks were used in this work, as can be seen from the different cuts of the diamonds. The large old-cut diamond set on one clip was certainly cut in the 19th century and now forms the radiant focal point of the brooch when the two clips are clipped together. The stone has an unusually high depth and thus brings a weight of 1.15 carats to the scales, as the hallmarked carat weight on the back of the clip reveals. 24 more old-cut and octagon-cut diamonds complete the piece. The double clip is a unique, handcrafted brooch that offers numerous ways to wear it. It captures the aesthetics of late Art Deco in an exemplary manner and has reached us from the Rhineland. For dating, see for example similar pieces in David Bennet and Daniela Mascetti: Understanding Jewellery, Woodbridge 2010, e.g. p. 370 f.

One of the most beautiful and typical pieces of Art Deco jewellery is the clip. Extravagant, precious examples, mostly set with diamonds, were produced by Cartier, Boucheron and Van Cleef and Arpels in Paris from the late 1920s onwards and were soon followed by goldsmiths all over the world. The special thing about this new type of brooch was that it could no longer be worn only on the lapel, but everywhere on the dress, on the belt, on the bag and even in the hair. Often as a pair, but also individually, surprising accents could be set, which had not been possible before. At the time of their introduction, the shape of the clips was initially flat, the surfaces richly set with diamonds. In the course of the 1930s, more voluminous, geometric shapes came into fashion. Yellow gold also replaced the previously favoured white gold, in line with the general Art Deco trend. A final innovation before the upheaval of the Great War was the redesign of the back holder towards the end of the 1930s. Whereas previously there had been a single large plate with a spring mechanism, now two interconnected pins were used.

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We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.

If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.

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