Matter of the heart in red gold

Newly made ring from our workshop with 0,53 ct brilliant solitaire

Over the years of trading in antique jewelry, unmounted historical and modern diamonds have found their way to us time and again. However, the search for beautiful settings for these diamonds turned out to be more difficult than expected. Modern ready-made settings, as you can buy them in the shops, are often soulless machine products without a feeling for form and proportion. But beautiful, hand-forged, antique settings rarely come to us without matching diamonds. So we commissioned our goldsmith to forge a ring setting to our design, which we then had cast using ancient techniques. We had this ring made from high karat gold using antique material. It has a vintage diamond in its centre in a modern full cut, the quality of which has been tested by the Berlin diamond laboratory Dr. Malzahn. It is a stone in slightly warm toned white with some individual inclusions, which matches the red gold setting very well. Two small set diamonds in delicate mille-handle settings divide the ring shoulders and give the piece its light elegance, which beautifully sets off the large brilliant-cut diamond in the center. At the same time, the jewel sparkles with every ray of light that strikes its finely crafted surfaces. Thanks to its high-quality, insensitive materials and its flat design, the ring can also be worn every day without any restrictions.

In ancient times, diamonds were valued primarily for their incomparable hardness. As symbols of invincible strength, their beauty was secondary at best. In fact, early diamonds do not appear at all attractive to the modern eye. Medieval cutting techniques also did not allow for spectacular light reflections, and the widespread table cuts only brought out the brightness and color of the stones. All this changed in the course of the 17th century. The nobility of the Baroque period developed a taste for glittering gemstones. Rose-cut diamonds, whose many facets reflected candlelight beautifully, were particularly popular. In the middle of the century, a first, early brilliant cut developed, called the Mazarin cut after the influential Cardinal Jules Mazarin, characterized by a crown of 17 facets. By the end of the century, these diamonds were then replaced by a new shape, named the Peruzzi cut after its inventor. Vincenzo Peruzzi was a gem cutter from Venice, who increased the crown of the diamonds by additional facets to a total of 33, thus increasing the fire of the stones enormously. However, these early brilliant diamonds were not standardized in terms of the number and shape of the facets. Each stone was cut in such a way that as much substance as possible could be preserved. New diamond deposits in Brazil in the second half of the 18th century then led to a cut shape that became known as the Old Mine Cut. These diamonds are already very similar to today's full-cut diamonds, but several generations of continuous improvement of the cutting technique were necessary before the Old Mine Cut became the Old European Cut, and finally the modern full cut in the 1940s.

We want you to be 100% satisfied! For that reason, we examine, describe and photograph all of our jewellery with the utmost care.

You can rely on our years of experience in the trade and our expertise as a professional art historians for reviews of the antique jewellery. As a member of various trader organisations and the British Society of Jewellery Historians, we remain committed to the highest possible degree of accuracy. In our descriptions, we always also indicate any signs of age and defects and never hide them in our photos – this saves you from any unpleasant surprises when your package arrives.

Should you for some reason not be satisfied, please don’t hesitate to contact us so that we can begin to find a solution together. In any case, you can return any article within 30 days and we will refund the full purchase price.


OUR PROMISE

We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.

If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.

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