Unusual "Harlequin" ring of gold with precious coloured stones, around 1890
This ring surprises with its extraordinary joy of colour. Coloured stones in pink and yellow, pink and green, red and blue vie with each other. Fine, delicate settings of reddish gold hold the stones and give the ring the shape of a flower. Centrally, we see a green emerald, with a ruby, a natural pearl, a sapphire, a hessonite, a yellow zircon, a beryl cat's eye, a blue spinel, and a pink sapphire in beautiful hand-cuts lined up all around. Since all the gemstones in the ring are cut differently, it is reasonable to assume that the setting here was put together in secondary use and is older than the ring itself. These are natural gemstones. Jewellery in rich colours is encountered again and again in the history of jewellery. Especially in the Rococo period, people loved colorful designs. The works called "harlequin" jewellery usually allowed a magnificent garden of flowers and blossoms to unfold before one's eyes. Colorful "giardinetti rings" (from the Italian for "little gardens") are also among the appealing examples of this period. They often feature small blossoms and bouquets of flowers with colorful gemstones and diamonds, or arrangements set in a basket, vase or pot. That this delight in color became fashionable once again at the end of the 19th century is shown by the piece here. Even though the colourfulness of the many gemstones used is also reminiscent of the Rococo period: the fine and delicate workmanship of the settings show that the ring was probably made in British India in the years around 1890. Thus, the execution and refinement breathe the spirit of the 19th century - and yet, through its materials, the ring draws a bow to history and the continents. Cf. on the so-called Harlequin Jewellery of the Rococo, among others, Ginny Reddington Dawes / Olivia Collings: Georgian Jewellery 1714-1830, Woodbridge 2007, p. 90.
Jewellery from the Victorian era often contains very high-quality gemstones. Since Queen Victoria was crowned Empress of India in 1877, the door to the precious gemstones of the Indian subcontinent was opened to the traders of the British Empire. Rubies, sapphires and emeralds, as well as large diamonds and precious coloured gemstones, now arrived on the island by sea - and were eagerly turned into jewellery by the goldsmiths in London and the other major centres of England.
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We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.
If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.