joie de vivre

Parure of necklace, earrings & brooch set with aquamarine, circa 1835

The cool, austere restraint of classicism was followed in European jewellery fashion from the 1820s onwards by an era of colourful, exuberant and fun-loving designs. Gold was shaped into sculptural ornaments, and colourful gemstones such as pink and gold topaz, citrine or chrysoberyl set the designs. Particularly festive jewellery was made as a parure, a coordinated set. The typical parure of the 1830s consisted of a necklace, earrings and brooch. If one did not wear a necklace, the brooch could be attached to the center of the neckline and worn with the earrings. The present set is such a parure of the Biedermeier period. It shows a rich setting of water blue, clear and brilliant aquamarines, which are quite rare in jewellery of the time - in fact aquamarine glass was used much more often. It also speaks for the quality of the stones that they were set openly, as many stones were still set in closed settings backed with foil to intensify their colour and brilliance. The settings are made of rich shining gold, which forms three-dimensional volutes and leaves. Typical of the 1830s are the long earrings and the so-called girandole motif of the necklace with three central suspensions. All ornaments were, as usual for this type of jewellery, pressed into fine gold sheets by means of models, so that the individual elements are hollow from behind. This makes even the earrings light and comfortable to wear over a long period of time. The set has been loved, worn and, when necessary, restored throughout its nearly 190-year life. The necklace, for example, was lengthened by symmetrically inserted gold chains when, a few generations later, fashion demanded rather longer necklaces. The tops of what were probably once two-piece earrings have now been replaced by simple hooks made of gold, and the brooch has been given a new safety clasp on the back. We had an antique case fitted for the parure with a new, snug-fitting insert of royal blue velvet. So now, safely protected, it awaits its next wearer.

We want you to be 100% satisfied! For that reason, we examine, describe and photograph all of our jewellery with the utmost care.

You can rely on our years of experience in the trade and our expertise as a professional art historians for reviews of the antique jewellery. As a member of various trader organisations and the British Society of Jewellery Historians, we remain committed to the highest possible degree of accuracy. In our descriptions, we always also indicate any signs of age and defects and never hide them in our photos – this saves you from any unpleasant surprises when your package arrives.

Should you for some reason not be satisfied, please don’t hesitate to contact us so that we can begin to find a solution together. In any case, you can return any article within 30 days and we will refund the full purchase price.


We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.

If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.