Conversation Piece

Fancy antique clip made of gold and amber, England around 1930

One of the most beautiful and typical pieces of Art Deco jewellery is the clip. Extravagant, precious examples, often set with diamonds, were produced by Cartier, Boucheron and Van Cleef and Arpels in Paris from the late 1920s onwards and were soon followed by goldsmiths all over the world. The special thing about this new type of brooch was that it could no longer be worn only on the lapel, but everywhere on the dress, on the belt, on the bag and even in the hair. Often as a pair, but also individually, surprising accents could be set, which had not been possible before. At the time of their introduction, the shape of the clips was initially flat, the surfaces often richly set with diamonds. In the course of the 1930s, more voluminous, geometric shapes came into fashion, as did coloured gemstones. Yellow gold also replaced the previously favoured white gold, in line with the general trend of late Art Deco. A final innovation before the upheaval of the Great War was the redesign of the back holder towards the end of the 1930s. Whereas previously there had been a single large plate with a spring mechanism, now two interconnected pins were used. Here we see a sensational clip from the years around 1930: A large insect - perhaps a beetle or cockroach has been turned from gold and amber into a piece of jewelry! The large dress clip au was created in the manufactory of Payton, Pepper & Sons Ltd in Birmingham and still inspires with its unusual design: The head of the little animal is made of slightly yellowish amber, while the body is carved from more reddish amber. Created about 90 years ago, the amber is set in solid gold. A hinged mechanism with a large clasp, also forged from gold, makes the little crawler wearable and an eye-catcher that is sure to cause more than one conversation! Buttery yellow gold also shapes the legs and antennae of the "conversation piece" and creates additional focal points. A jewel fun of the outgoing Art Deco to clip on! On the history of the clip, see David Bennett/Daniela Mascetti: Understanding Jewellery, Woodbridge 2010, pp. 322-325, with numerous illustrations.

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We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.

If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.