Spring greetings

Splendid flower brooch with more than 1,18 ct diamonds, Vienna circa 1890

Diamond flowers and stars were the great fashion of the last third of the 19th century. Certainly this was also connected with the constantly improved brilliant cut, which, in connection with the new electric light, made the diamonds themselves sparkle like stars at evening events. For as in the previous century, diamonds, with the exception of engagement rings, were reserved for the evening and night time in the Wilhelmine era. The present brooch features no less than six old-cut diamonds of very fine quality, which together alone amount to about 1.18 ct. They are accompanied by smaller diamond roses that cover the filigree flower. They shine particularly brightly in the darker silver setting. The brooch was created at a time when neither platinum nor white gold were processed, so that jewellers produced gold jewellery with silver settings whose darkening was already taken into account. From its hallmark we can be sure that the brooch was made between 1872 and 1922, in Vienna. This places it in a wonderful tradition: for it was from Vienna that the fashion for these pieces of jewellery first spread. The trigger was the famous portrait of Empress Elisabeth by the renowned painter Franz Xaver Winterhalter, which shows her with numerous diamond stars in her hair. These were inspired by the Queen of the Night's hair ornaments in Mozart's Magic Flute, which Sissi raved about so much that Franz Joseph commissioned similar stars from the court jeweller Alexander Emanuel Köchert. Unlike the star, however, which according to its motif is suitable for the cooler months, the flower is a symbol of spring and summer. And so it is not surprising that a similar piece to the magnificent yet playful brooch is to be found in the June 1893 issue of the influential German-language fashion magazine of those years, "Der Bazar", which had been entered into a competition in the spring of the same year (cf. last photo above right, source: Der Bazar - illustrirte Damen-Zeitung, 39th volume 1893, no. 24, p. 246).

We want you to be 100% satisfied! For that reason, we examine, describe and photograph all of our jewellery with the utmost care.

You can rely on our years of experience in the trade and our expertise as a professional art historians for reviews of the antique jewellery. As a member of various trader organisations and the British Society of Jewellery Historians, we remain committed to the highest possible degree of accuracy. In our descriptions, we always also indicate any signs of age and defects and never hide them in our photos – this saves you from any unpleasant surprises when your package arrives.

Should you for some reason not be satisfied, please don’t hesitate to contact us so that we can begin to find a solution together. In any case, you can return any article within 30 days and we will refund the full purchase price.


OUR PROMISE

We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.

If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.

Play