From Brazil

Splendid brooch/pendant with 5,98 ct diamonds in Garland style, around 1905

The years shortly after 1900 brought a formal language into the world of jewellery with the so-called "Garland Style", which countered Art Nouveau with a more classical, finer stylistic conception. Allusions to Louis XVI forms and fine motifs from classical antiquity enlivened a neoclassicism that valued small, delicate laurel tendrils just as much as meticulous festoons and ornaments with tiny mille griffons. Jewellery in this style is almost always characterised by a precision of execution that matches the delicacy of the designs. The precious stones are set in the finest platinum and gold settings by a master craftsman's hand; delicate moving pendulums and ingeniously variable functions still delight the connoisseur today. In addition, these special jewels in white radiate an unearthly seduction, a little worldly and thus particularly luxurious. The object at hand here is exactly in keeping with this style. We see a large bow, set all over with white diamonds. A large old-cut diamond of about 0.60 ct occupies the center of the shape. Radiant laurel tendrils emanate from it, and other large diamonds sparkle at the other ends. Below the loop, further cascades of laurel leaves and large diamonds are set like dewdrops: Since these pendulums are also always composed of several movable parts, these diamonds swing back and forth slightly with every movement of their wearer and thus sparkle all the more. The bow can be worn as a brooch or as a pendant, as the brooch on the back can be unscrewed. It is crafted from high-carat yellow gold and finished with a platinum front. Thus, the design shines in beautiful, elegant white. The brooch, in first class condition, was purchased in Brazil according to its previous owner. The stamping of the gold with the fineness in carats corresponds to this provenance. It thus shows that the style of classical beauty, which first developed in Europe at the beginning of the 20th century, quickly took possession of the whole world and enchanted it in beauty.

In the years shortly before 1890 there was a true revolution in the field of jewellery. The excess of historicism in form and colour appeared to be no longer in keeping with the times throughout Europe. Increasing mechanization, also in jewelry making, had repeated the same forms over and over again until they had finally become interchangeable and arbitrary. The jewellers feared for their existence: jewellery sales were declining rapidly, a new fashion was not in sight! At the beginning of the new decade the crisis was overcome. White jewels were the solution, and they quickly caught on. Instead of many poorly combinable pieces of jewellery, ladies now concentrated on a few, but all the more high-quality objects. They were united by their common colour: white diamonds and pearls shone in settings of silver, later platinum and white gold. The designs are filigree and completely restrained in their formal language. Leaves, tendrils and light geometric shapes suddenly dominated the picture, which until just now had been populated by putti in large numbers. The piece of jewellery presented here is a piece from the first years of this new fashion, which remained current into the first years of Art Deco.

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You can rely on our years of experience in the trade and our expertise as a professional art historians for reviews of the antique jewellery. As a member of various trader organisations and the British Society of Jewellery Historians, we remain committed to the highest possible degree of accuracy. In our descriptions, we always also indicate any signs of age and defects and never hide them in our photos – this saves you from any unpleasant surprises when your package arrives.

Should you for some reason not be satisfied, please don’t hesitate to contact us so that we can begin to find a solution together. In any case, you can return any article within 30 days and we will refund the full purchase price.


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We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.

If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.

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