Progress time

Splendid ring of the Art Déco with rubies & diamonds, around 1928

Of all the gemstones in the history of jewellery, it was rubies in particular for which demand and supply were so poorly balanced that attempts were made early on to produce them artificially. As early as 1850, for example, the chemist Sénarmont undertook experiments in this regard, and by 1878 there was so much public interest in the subject that an article entitled Edelstein-Alchemie appeared on this very subject in the successful German mass and family journal Die Gartenlaube (issue 14, 1878, pp. 228-230). So the excitement was all the greater when in 1902 the first synthetic - not reconstructed - rubies created by Verneuil became commercially available. As late as 1918, it was said: "To distinguish the synthetic ruby from the natural one, it seems that an absolutely reliable distinguishing feature has not yet been found". Rather, goldsmiths suddenly had every conceivable shade of red at their disposal - "from dark Siam ruby to light pink ruby" - and this was not dependent on lucky finds. Just like natural rubies, synthetic rubies were set in precious metal settings alongside diamonds, and the present ring is another example of this development. Two cherry red synthetic rubies are found on an elongated ring head. Numerous diamonds frame the rubies, with a large old-cut diamond of nearly a quarter carat mediating between the two stones. Graphic rectangular shadow gaps punctuate the bed of gemstones and add depth of color. The stones are set in white gold with a platinum overlay, intensifying the color of the rubies and the brilliance of the diamonds. Like synthetic rubies, white gold was a reinvention of the time and was available to goldsmiths from 1912. Splendid white jewels were part of the jewellery of every metropolitan woman of distinction during the Art Deco period, and rings in particular took on new, larger dimensions. The present ring is indebted to modernity not only in form and decoration, but also in material, thus combining scientific progress with luxury and timeless elegance. Cf. on the history of ruby synthesis Jaqcues Boyer: Die synthetischen Edelsteine, ihre Geschichte, Herstellung und Eigenschaften, Berlin 1918, there also above quotations, p. 39.

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We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.

If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.