Shimmering bow

Rare brooch by Theodor Fahrner with smoky quartz, Pforzheim circa 1955

"The beauty of dress is enhanced to an extraordinary degree by the distinctive effect of Fahrner jewellery. No lady of taste will want to do without it in the future." (From a brochure of the Theodor Fahrner company from the 1920s) In the history of Art Nouveau and Art Deco jewellery, Fahrner jewellery from Pforzheim occupies a special place. Theodor Fahrner and later his successor Gustav Braendle knew how to make artistically convincing designs and high-quality workmanship the hallmark of their brooches, necklaces, bracelets and earrings like hardly any other modern jewellery manufacturer. Theodor Fahrner made artists' jewellery affordable by combining modern forms with democratic materials. He did not create individual pieces for a small elite like Lalique or Cartier, but the designs were produced in series in silver, decorated with enamel, marcasites and occasionally precious stones. Jewellers and department stores all over Europe sold the jewellery, which Fahrner advertised extensively in journals and magazines: "Fahrner jewellery - designed by the best artists" allowed every woman to participate in a modern life full of beauty. Every year, travelling salesmen with large sample cases presented the new products developed in Pforzheim to local jewellers. One such sample case full of unworn Fahrner jewellery has lain untouched in an attic for the last 40 years or more until it was offered to us. It contained samples of almost every series from about 1919 until the company's dissolution in 1979, most with a model number or the "Original Fahrner" seal. This brooch is also unworn and perfectly preserved. It comes from the series "Filigran-Schmuck", which was developed in the 1930s. Designed as a large, stylized cushion, it holds a faceted smoky quartz in its center and a total of 30 marcasite roses on gentle rimmed wave bands. Fine twisted wires and small beads occupy the surface of the brooch's humped face: they gave the series its name. A wonderful overview of the wealth of designs is provided by the catalogue "Theodor Fahrner. Schmuck zwischen Avantgarde und Tradition", edited by Brigitte Leonhardt and Dieter Zühlsdorff, Stuttgart 2005, where the present series can be found on p. 226f. The brooch is made of silver which has been lightly gilded. This kind of gilding is called "antique gilding" by Fahrner. It has a cool, slightly greenish-gold tone, by which Fahrner jewelry can be easily identified. The brooch was probably made in the 1950s, but certainly after 1950, because it bears the original Fahrner anniversary label with the inscription "100 years Fahrner" with the then wholesale price of DM 98 and the old order number. Fahrner jewelry is often collected. Discover all the other Fahrner jewelry we offer at this location..

We want you to be 100% satisfied! For that reason, we examine, describe and photograph all of our jewellery with the utmost care.

You can rely on our years of experience in the trade and our expertise as a professional art historians for reviews of the antique jewellery. As a member of various trader organisations and the British Society of Jewellery Historians, we remain committed to the highest possible degree of accuracy. In our descriptions, we always also indicate any signs of age and defects and never hide them in our photos – this saves you from any unpleasant surprises when your package arrives.

Should you for some reason not be satisfied, please don’t hesitate to contact us so that we can begin to find a solution together. In any case, you can return any article within 30 days and we will refund the full purchase price.


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We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.

If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.

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