Late Art Deco solitaire ring with old cut diamond in gold & platinum, circa 1940
The 1920s brought a new style to the world of jewellery: geometric abstractions, fine materials and luxurious furnishings were the buzzwords used to describe the new Art Deco style. The longer and wider the style spread, the more developed the forms became. In Paris and the USA, a special variety of late Art Déco emerged in the years after 1930, which in the USA is called "retro" jewellery: The forms became stronger, more physical, and the jewellery even more splendid. The ring here follows this fashion: a wonderful, brightly shining old-cut diamond is set in a carre setting of platinum. The ring head and the ring band curve towards us in a dynamic, powerful and splendid stomline shape. The ring itself is made of 14-karat yellow gold, which gives the piece a warm undertone. The piece, which we date to around 1940 on the basis of its design language, materials and workmanship, is in first-class condition and can be worn by both ladies and gentlemen.
In ancient times, diamonds were valued primarily for their incomparable hardness. As symbols of invincible strength, their beauty was secondary at best. In fact, early diamonds do not appear at all attractive to the modern eye. Medieval cutting techniques also did not allow for spectacular light reflections, and the widespread table cuts only brought out the brightness and color of the stones. All this changed in the course of the 17th century. The nobility of the Baroque period developed a taste for glittering gemstones. Rose-cut diamonds, whose many facets reflected candlelight beautifully, were particularly popular. In the middle of the century, a first, early brilliant cut developed, called the Mazarin cut after the influential Cardinal Jules Mazarin, characterized by a crown of 17 facets. By the end of the century, these diamonds were then replaced by a new shape, named the Peruzzi cut after its inventor. Vincenzo Peruzzi was a gem cutter from Venice, who increased the crown of the diamonds by additional facets to a total of 33, thus increasing the fire of the stones enormously. However, these early brilliant diamonds were not standardized in terms of the number and shape of the facets. Each stone was cut in such a way that as much substance as possible could be preserved. New diamond deposits in Brazil in the second half of the 18th century then led to a cut shape that became known as the Old Mine Cut. These diamonds are already very similar to today's full-cut diamonds, but several generations of continuous improvement of the cutting technique were still necessary until the Old Mine Cut became first the old cut, and finally in the 1940s the modern full cut.
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You can rely on our years of experience in the trade and our expertise as a professional art historians for reviews of the antique jewellery. As a member of various trader organisations and the British Society of Jewellery Historians, we remain committed to the highest possible degree of accuracy. In our descriptions, we always also indicate any signs of age and defects and never hide them in our photos – this saves you from any unpleasant surprises when your package arrives.
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We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.
If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.