Glamourama

Spectacular Art Deco diamond brooch in platinum, circa 1930

The heyday of the Art Deco era falls between the two catastrophes of the 20th century, the two great wars. But it was during these intervening years that the art of jewellery experienced an unprecedented wealth of materials and a perfection of execution never again achieved. In those years, everything seemed to interpenetrate. A new formal language, which was explicitly directed against the floral Art Nouveau style, often perceived as turgid, and wanted to counter it with clearer, purer forms, was applied in almost all areas of the arts. The architecture of the time particularly impressed people, as did the new automobiles and the unconditional modernity associated with them. An "ever higher, ever further, ever faster" was the attitude to life of that week - and therein lay confidence and joie de vivre. This spectacular brooch made of diamonds and platinum is a child of this time. It is a classic piece of jewellery from the twenties and early thirties: a flat shield shape is set close together with more than seven carats of diamonds. Graphic lines divide the surface, at the ends of which the material seems to rise up as if in foaming waves. Numerous such designs were created in those years for the upper classes, because a wardrobe was only really complete with a precious brooch. Our piece, which presents a large brilliant-cut diamond in the center, features almost innumerable white diamonds in the historic old cut. 188 fine white diamonds are set in precious platinum and shine with glistening light. All the gemstones are set in delicately yet solidly crafted platinum, so that the metal appears almost invisible and pure diamond brilliance delights us. Finely sawn shadow gaps and the use of so-called mille grips, with which the remaining platinum surface is broken into literally thousands of small areas, create a play of light and shadow for which jewels like this brooch must be loved. It is a tribute to the beauty of diamonds, yet the brooch seems to be made only of these precious stones. So delicate, so fine are the settings made of what was then the most expensive of all precious metals, platinum, that one believes the diamonds are held together by an unearthly force. Stone to stone, sparkling, glistening, the brilliant-cut diamonds are linked by a radiant light common to them all. The brooch is a special, indeed a wonderful piece of wearable jewellery history, excellently preserved and enlivened by a dreamlike inner fire.

The twenties and early thirties were the heyday of platinum jewellery. Although the metal had been known since antiquity, for a long time little attention was paid to it. Not least its high melting temperature of 1,768 °C made it difficult to process for a long time. In Spanish it was even referred to somewhat disparagingly as "platina" (little silver), from which our present name is derived. It was not until the turn of the 20th century that improved smelting processes enabled the triumph of platinum, which allows far finer and more detailed work than gold or even silver. At that time, platinum was the most precious metal in the world, and it was valued above all for its light colour, which excellently enhances the effect of white diamonds. It is precisely this combination that gives rise to pieces of jewellery of the radiantly cool elegance so favoured by Art Deco.

We want you to be 100% satisfied! For that reason, we examine, describe and photograph all of our jewellery with the utmost care.

You can rely on our years of experience in the trade and our expertise as a professional art historians for reviews of the antique jewellery. As a member of various trader organisations and the British Society of Jewellery Historians, we remain committed to the highest possible degree of accuracy. In our descriptions, we always also indicate any signs of age and defects and never hide them in our photos – this saves you from any unpleasant surprises when your package arrives.

Should you for some reason not be satisfied, please don’t hesitate to contact us so that we can begin to find a solution together. In any case, you can return any article within 30 days and we will refund the full purchase price.


OUR PROMISE

We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.

If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.

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