Unworn ring with antique 0.80 ct old-cut solitaire, circa 1910/2020
As antique jewellery dealers, we sometimes receive unmounted antique diamonds from the stocks of dissolved goldsmiths or from pieces of jewellery that could no longer be repaired. We are then happy to remember the tradition, cultivated in earlier centuries, of giving beautiful gemstones a second life in a contemporary piece of jewellery. Such a unique gemstone is presented here. The large old-cut diamond of the years around 1910 has a beautiful presence through with a weight of 0.807 ct with light toning and good clarity. To present it true to its antique cut yet timeless, we chose a setting from a Chicago manufacture that still makes American Art Deco style settings today. Luminous white gold was already characteristic of American jewellery in the 1920s, and to this day it has lost none of its topicality and cool elegance. Amidst delicate floral piercings that resemble lace, the large brilliant-cut diamond is presented slightly raised above the finger. The cool toned precious metal intensifies its brilliance and brightness superbly. We had the brilliant cut diamond set into the white gold ring in our workshop. A perfect engagement ring for all those who want to write the story of their engagement ring from scratch themselves - and yet appreciate the elegance of antique jewellery and the individuality of old brilliant cuts.
The shape of the diamond has evolved over many centuries. For a long time it was technically impossible to change the raw crystal more than rudimentary, because the diamond is so extraordinarily hard. In the 17th and 18th centuries it was then possible to extract more and more facets from the crystal, and in the course of the 19th century the cuts came closer and closer to the shape that we know today as a brilliant. It was not until 1919, however, that Marcel Tolkowsky calculated the ideal shape of the brilliant on an optical-physical basis; the exact shape, which is the standard in Germany today, the so-called fine cut of the practice, was not even determined until 1938. The shape of the modern brilliant-cut diamond really became established after the war. The brilliant is therefore actually a fairly recent invention - and this also means that with a diamond cut in the 19th century or at the beginning of the 20th century, a so-called "old cut", the proportions of the stone do not follow the standard of today's brilliant. Old cuts were always cut individually in those days: One wanted to find the optimal way between the best brilliance on the one hand and the least loss of material during cutting on the other. We find that it is precisely this individuality that makes old diamonds so particularly interesting. They are less easy to compare, and their value cannot simply be determined by means of a table: Because you have to look at each stone individually to really be able to say whether it has the fire and brilliance that you expect from a diamond.
We want you to be 100% satisfied! For that reason, we examine, describe and photograph all of our jewellery with the utmost care.
You can rely on our years of experience in the trade and our expertise as a professional art historians for reviews of the antique jewellery. As a member of various trader organisations and the British Society of Jewellery Historians, we remain committed to the highest possible degree of accuracy. In our descriptions, we always also indicate any signs of age and defects and never hide them in our photos – this saves you from any unpleasant surprises when your package arrives.
Should you for some reason not be satisfied, please don’t hesitate to contact us so that we can begin to find a solution together. In any case, you can return any article within 30 days and we will refund the full purchase price.
We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.
If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.